Sunday, November 7, 2010
Okanagan Fall Wine Festival Gold Winners 2010
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Canadian Woman Wins Les Dames d'Escoffier International M.F.K. Fisher Award
LOUISVILLE, KY--(Marketwire - November 02, 2010) - Natalie MacLean, an award-winning wine writer from Nepean, Ontario, won first prize in the M.F.K. Fisher Awards for Excellence in Culinary Writing competition, sponsored by Les Dames d'Escoffier International. In addition to a $1,000 cash prize, MacLean won a trip to the LDEI Annual Conference in Palm Springs to accept the award at the October 23 gala banquet honoring M.F.K. Fisher. Profile: Natalie MacLean, First Prize Winner "I was shocked," Natalie MacLean said in response to being told that she had won the 2010 MFK Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing. "In fact, I'm still convinced there's been a tabulation error in the results, so I'm hoping to collect the award quickly before anyone discovers the mistake. "On a serious note, winning this award is something you must live up to rather than something you deserve. The point is to remember and honor M.F.K. Fisher and her gloriously sensuous prose." At the World Food Media Awards in Australia in 2005, MacLean was named the World's Best Drink Writer. She has also won four James Beard awards and six IACP Bert Greene Awards. MacLean is a leader in social media for the wine industry. www.twitter.com/nataliemaclean and www.facebook.com/natdecants More than 10,000 websites and blogs have posted her Drinks Matcher tool (www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher). In 2008 MacLean won third prize in LDEI's contest for a story about women Champagne makers in France. Her columns have appeared in more than 60 newspapers and magazines; more than 115,000 subscribers get her free monthly newsletter. In her book "Red, White and Drunk All Over," Natalie chronicles three years of sipping, spitting and slogging her way through the international wine world. The book was chosen the Best Wine Literature Book in the English language at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. Rex Pickett, author of Sideways, says that MacLean "writes about wine with a sensuous obsession," and is "laugh-out-loud funny." A Rhodes Scholarship finalist, she studied 19th-century English literature at Oxford University in England and earned an MBA at UWO, London. However, for her current preoccupation, she credits the long Scottish line of hard drinkers from whom she descends for her ability to drink like a fish -- and for the motivation to write about it -- in a transparent attempt to make it look respectable.
Second prize of $500 went to The Washington Post staff writer Jane Black. And T. Susan Chang of Leverett, Mass., a food writer and regular cookbook reviewer for the Boston Globe, won third prize and $250.
MacLean won with an Internet entry, "Flying High," on her website www.nataliemaclean.com. Her story, about Featherstone Winery in Niagara, chronicles the winery's battle to protect the vineyards from airborne predators and weeds without using synthetic chemicals. It's also the story of a husband and wife team who dream of creating a benchmark wine despite a harsh climate.
"Winning this award is something you must live up to rather than something you deserve. The point is to remember and honor M.F.K. Fisher and her gloriously sensuous prose," MacLean said, in accepting her award.
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Black's award was for "Snob Appeal. Won't Someone Knock Heirloom Tomatoes off their Pedestal?" Black writes, "The best tomato I ate last summer was not an heirloom tomato. If those don't seem like fighting words, then clearly you do not take tomatoes seriously." She adds, "'Heirloom' is not synonymous with 'good.' The key to a great tomato is how it is grown."
T. Susan Chang's award was for "Gather Ye Squash Blossoms While Ye May," a feature on National Public Radio's website, www.npr.org. The article details the handling and cooking of squash blossoms that "on the vine... unfurl like a Kleenex crumpling in reverse." Chang writes that picking the blossoms is "a highly effective form of zucchini birth control."
About LDEI's 2010 M.F.K. Fisher Awards
M.F.K. Fisher, one of America's finest food writers, was described by the poet W.H. Auden as the best prose writer of her time. She wrote more than 20 books before her death in 1992.
The 2010 contest in her memory drew 78 entries. "This is the best contest I've ever judged. Very difficult," a veteran food editor and judge commented. "All three of the winning stories are right in sync with the spirit of M.F.K.," noted another judge.
New to this year's competition was the inclusion of works from Internet websites and blogs. Judges did not know the source of the entries, which included 24 stories from newspapers, 22 articles from magazines, 15 excerpts from books and 14 from the Internet.
Representing seven states, the eight judges are food editors at Better Homes and Gardens Magazine (Iowa), Houston Chronicle, New Orleans Times Picayune, Desert News (Salt Lake City), San Francisco Chronicle, and Indianapolis Star. A writing coach from Charlottesville, Va., and a newspaper columnist also judged. None of the judges was a member of LDEI. The 2010 M.F.K. Fisher Awards chair was CiCi Williamson, of LDEI.
To read more about the winners and the prize-winning articles, go to www.ldei.org
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Profile: Jane Black, Second Prize Winner
"As a former judge of LDEI's M.F.K. Fisher Award (in 2008), I know how stiff the competition is. So it is an honor to be one of the winners," said Jane Black. "I was also thrilled to win for an essay, a blend of personal experience and real reporting, which I think can be so effective when writing about food."
Jane is a food writer at The Washington Post where she covers food politics, trends and sustainability issues. Her reporting has taken her from Immokalee, Fla., where she wrote about tomato pickers' struggle for better working conditions, to Monterey Bay, where she attended a "secret meeting" of the "Sardinistas," a group of environmentalists who advocate the culinary joys of small, sustainable fish.
Black began her career as a business and political reporter. In 2003, she switched directions and attended culinary school in London. Before moving to Washington, she served as food editor at Boston Magazine. Jane's writing has received many awards including two James Beard Awards for The Washington Post Food section. Her work has also been featured in the collections of Best Food Writing in 2008 and 2009.
Profile: T. Susan Chang, Third Prize Winner
"I'm more pleased than I can say to be recognized by Les Dames d'Escoffier and the judges for third prize in the M.F.K. Fisher Award," said T. Susan Chang. "I think that when we write about food, we share something both intimate and exposed. I don't know if it's hard for everybody, but it's certainly hard for me. In my experience the food writer lives, absurdly, by the following set of axioms: 'We think, therefore we are. We think about what we eat. Therefore, we are what we eat.'
"It's the easiest thing in the world to fall victim to a jaded palate and start over-intellectualizing the act of eating. What I always love about M.F.K. Fisher is that she knew you could fall for what was right there on the plate before you. You could fall simply and forever, and you could live to tell about it. I never dreamed I would have the chance to share just a bit in her legacy. Thank you so much for giving me that chance."
Chang has been a food writer since 2000, when she first began writing for the Boston Globe. Prior to that, she had worked in academic publishing as an acquisitions editor specializing in literary studies.
Currently, Chang is a frequent contributor to the Kitchen Window series on NPR, where she also appears twice yearly with a comprehensive list of seasonal cookbook recommendations. She is the regular cookbook reviewer for the Boston Globe, where her reviews appear about once a month. At the cookbook indexing website www.eatyourbooks.com, Susan is the host of the Community page and resident cookbook reviewer. She's also the cookbook reviewer for AOL's new website, Kitchen Daily. Links to her newest pieces can be found at www.tsusanchang.com, along with a complete list of publications.
In 2004, Chang was named a Food and Society Policy Fellow by the Kellogg Foundation and began work advocating for food sustainability. During her fellowship, she wrote federally mandated wellness policies for her regional school district and started a teaching garden at her children's elementary school. She continues to advocate for kids' nutrition and bringing fresh, local foods to the school lunchroom. Susan lives in western Massachusetts with her husband and her two children. She enjoys gardening and sewing, and is excessively fond of apples.
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Sunday, October 31, 2010
Wine Spectator Features Okanagan Valley As Wine Destination
BRITISH COLUMBIA'S EMERGING OKANAGAN VALLEY HAS THE MAKINGS OF A SERIOUS WINE REGION - WINE SPECTATOR, NOVEMBER 2010 WINE COUNTRY TRAVEL SPECIAL
By Lynn Alley [Excerpted from Wine Spectator]
In late September, the terrace restaurant at Mission Hill Family Estate Winery is filled with suntanned tourists wearing shorts and sunglasses, sipping local wine, eating, enjoying the stunning view.
But this view isn't over the lush vineyards of Napa Valley. The happy visitors are in Canada, looking south over the Okanagan Lake in British Columbia's Okanagan Valley.
Although Canada's wine industry was prominent first in Ontario, its British Columbian arm has blossomed in recent years. The most successful wines from this western region come from the Okanagan Valley, a four-hour drive inland over the mountains from Vancouver, or a short flight from Seattle, Vancouver and other nearby Canadian cities to the tiny international airport in Kelowna, "gateway to the Okanagan." Read More On Wine Spectator....
| Profiles and listings for thousands of wineries around the globe. Wine Spectator Monthly Pick:Cedar Creek Estate Winery, Okanagan Valley, BC |
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Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Confrérie des Vignerons des Côtes du Ventoux
Confrérie des Vignerons des Côtes du Ventoux roughly translates to the Brotherhood of Ventoux Winemakers. Vignerons is one of those wonderful French words. The word itself sounds like Patron and Vine combined. It evokes the associative alliteration of "patron of the vines." And what is a winemaker, a vigneron, if not a patron of the vines? Someone who cultivates, nurtures, tends and harvests fruits brought forth from deep-rooted vines.
And what is wine, if not an art?
AOC Ventoux is the wine region right next to the celebrated Châteauneuf du Pape. Not as famous as its neighbor, the area's wineries nonetheless produce outstanding wines. "We just have to say that we're next to Châteauneuf du Pape for people to recognize what we produce. It's the same terroir. The same vines," explained the proprietor and winemaker André Berthet-Rayne of Domaine Berthet-Rayne in Cairanne. He gestured to his fields of Bourboulenc, Grenache, Roussane and Clairette with the deeply tinted purple hands that are the tell-tale signs of the winemaker during crush.
He also produces AOC Côtes du Rhônes wines including a Domaine Berthet-Rayne Castel Mireio 2008 from old vines, approximately 40 years old. This red has top notes of mushrooms, offers a waft of musky and finishes with a balanced acid, fullness in the mouth. It also comes in a white. Vignerons-Cairanne.
The Confrérie was revived in 1982 and today is the ambassador for Côtes du Ventoux wines. It is made up of a small group of wine lovers who are expert on wine and the soils. Newly inducted members have to pass a tasting test, do some oath-taking and then they are allowed to receive the taste-vin engraved with the Poudadouïre, the symbol of the brotherhood.
Ventoux AOC Terroir
There are several distinctive soil types in the Ventoux wine region, a region that has more wineries than all of New Zealand combined, according to Morgan Williams. Williams is a New Zealand native and winemaker who currently works at Château Unang, a 9th century château and vineyard in the village of Malemort du Comtat. He will tell you straight up that none of the locals buy Châteauneuf wines. Not when you can get a Ventoux wine that's just as good and not nearly as expensive.
Altered Safre is one of the Ventoux soil types and exhibits a light, sandy texture combined with pebbles. Ochre sands, (red earth), and gypsum, (white rock), are also to be found on the natural steps that form the "Comtat Terraces," the geological formation between the plains and the Mont Ventoux mountain from which the AOC region takes its name. At the base of Mont Ventoux, in Bedoin, home to many noted wineries, the alluvial fan presents a variety of soils - brown, red and white -which lend themselves to growing the highly characteristic wines.
Mazan is a choice starting point for a journey of discovery of Ventoux wines, and not just because the Marquis de Sade, in 1772, held the first theater festival in Provence in the village of Mazan. [Nearby Avignon now holds its annual, world renowned theater festival during the summer]. It is also a wine heritage site with archeological digs unearthing wine storage amphorae from ca. 40BC, the Augustan era.
But most importantly, Mazan offers a number of outstanding and easy to access wineries and wine paths. Domaine des Cambades is a bit off the beaten path but still close to Mazan. Proprietor/winemaker Hervé Vincent will graciously meet you at the crossroads if you call in advance and tell him that you are coming by. Domaine des Cambades' vintage, Il Etait Une Fois makes a stop at the winery, every bit worthwhile and an absolute must.
For some oenogeek activity, an afternoon at the Château Pesquié is one to put on the list. The winery, located in Mormoiron, offers a path around the lovely 18th century château itself which is a beautiful specimen of Provencal architecture. The path offers sweeping views over Mont Ventoux and Mormoiron, a charming local village. Along the path you will see the AOC Ventoux grape varietals: Carignan, Cinsault, Syrah, and Grenache for the reds and rosés and Clairette and Roussanne for the whites. The path is about 1 km and takes approximately 45 minutes to walk. The cellar also shows cross-sections of the estate's soils.
Carignan is a grape very present in the Côtes du Ventoux appellation. It is Spanish in origin and is cultivated to produce low yields. Winemakers expect to get qualities of robustness, color, power and liveliness from the juice.
For three generations the family has been making wine at Domaine du Bon Remède. Lucile and Frederic Delay say that 2010 will be a good year. They use 40-50 year old Grenache vines to blend with their 90% syrah, 10% Grenache Secret de Vincent vintage 2008. Their 2006 is all sold out and not even a wine cellar visit at the winery will get you a bottle, let alone a case. Their barrel and cask storehouse make the trek out to the winery still worthwhile.
Domaine de Fondrèche is another to mark down on your map. It's at the intersection of two ancient Roman roads. And, of course, Domaine des Anges, at the top of Notre Dame des Anges hill, with its splendid views of Mont Ventoux, lend a Ventoux wine tasting trip its deep red, dark fruit flavor, perfect for crush and the Autumnal season.
*Editor's Note: Truffle season, "Rabasse," in Provencal, begins in November.
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Domaine Le Pointu, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape
Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc. Domaine le Pointu.
Châteauneuf du Pape Is White It's like a natural reflex, certain wines, varietals, regions make us think automatically of a color of the wine. Red, White, Rosé. This is one of the most gratifying symptoms of entering more deeply into the world of wine, learning that, for example,a brilliant Châteauneuf du Pape comes in a white as well.We've recognized it before and we'll say it again, good winemakers are always the first to say that wine starts in the vineyard, on the vines. After seeing and participating in several harvests and talking to dozens of winemakers and vineyard hands, I couldn't agree more...with the caveat that the methods differ greatly from vineyard to vineyard with some focusing on vineyard farming as opposed to vine husbanding.
Vine Husbanding
After a mere 5 years in the heart of Provence's Châteauneuf du Pape AOC, Patrick Coste, with wife Karine, has proven just what can be accomplished with vineyards and a cellar when good strong methods of vine husbanding are carried through from the vineyard to the fermentation tanks to the barrels and, finally, to the bottles.
It was only in 2004 that the first harvest of Domaine le Pointu went into their vats. "Le Pointu is the name of one of our vineyard plots planted with white grapes; it is located on a hillside near the wood of Château Rayas," explained Mssr. Coste, the younger. Patrick's father, Maurice, is the former President of the Courthézon Cooperative Cellar. Courthézon is where the winery of the 27- hectare, 5 year old Domaine is located. Six hectares of vineyards are in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation, 11 in the Côtes du Rhône appellation and 10 in Vin de Pays.
Le Pointu vines from that plateau butt up against the the renowned vines of Beaucastel, signaling the same terroir. Still, it does come down to technique. And there's quite a difference between farming and harvesting and husbanding and tending. The signature terroir of these vines are large rocks that transmit the heat from the sunshine they absorb in the warm Provenςal days to the vines at night, thus aiding in the slow maturation and warm ripening of the grapes. The French term for this terroir is galets roulés.
Land of The Rising Sun Success has come quickly for the husband and wife team who named two of their best vintages so far after their first two sons, Clément and Mathieu.
With a combination of marketing and good, solid, French countryside people skills, Patrick was able, straight out of the gate, to get the attention of Japan's President of the Association of International Sommeliers, Kazuyoshi Kogai at Japan's Foodex Salon 2007. A contract with a leading Japanese cosmetics company has fallen into place since then which has Domaine Le Pointu supplying gift boxes of wines for the company during holidays.
Domaine Le Pointu will also be the wine supplier for Paris-Dakar for this year's races. Good vineyard practices, solid people skills and knowing when and who, to ask for advice seems to be the Coste's winning recipe here. The reputed Bordeaux wine consultant, Christian Prud'Homme, has been advising Patrick Coste on the vinification process, notably the barrels he uses at Le Pointu, which are all Bordeaux barrels.
And the wines themselves? Well, they've already earned the attention of Bettane & Desseauve, Robert Parker, Andréas Larsson and Jancis Robinson. Personally I would recommend anything from their 2007 run, whether it's their Côtes du Rhône - especially Cuvée Le Vieux Chêne - or Châteauneuf du Pape, particularly Cuvée Clément and Mathieu, both made from vines 90-105 years old with a production of 10000 and 8000 bottles respectively. Each are Grenache noir and Cinsault noir and from different vintage years.
But the wine that got me super excited was Domaine le Pointu's Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Spéciale Feuilles d'Or (label pictured above). It is made with organically cultivated grapes, indeed the Domaine will be certified organic in 2011, from 90 year old vines. This wine is made from the famous terroir of galets roulés. White Châteauneuf du Pape wines represent only 4% of the total production of the appellation. It has a delicate bouquet, floral with a touch of fruit, citrus. It makes a nice aperitif when young but you can keep it 2-5 years and pair it with herb-encrusted fish, veal and fresh cheeses. Total of 2000 (two thousand) bottles.
Domaine Le Pointu, 255 Chemin de la Grande Allee, 84350 Courthezon, France. www.domaine-le-pointu.com
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Saturday, October 16, 2010
Wine For Gen Y
Through her unique style of winemaking, Beth Cutler hopes to bring obscure grape varieties out of the underground, making them more wildly recognized and respected by both winemakers and consumers alike. Where some might use varietals like Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouchet in small proportions for blending, Bear Flag allocates a hearty 20% of the bottle.
The bottles’ artwork is another distinct touch that sets Bear Flag apart from the rest. The colorful cartoonish collage put together by Argentinean artist Eduardo Bertone has an eclectic punk rock aesthetic that perfectly illustrates Bear Flag’s mission, and Cutler’s style of winemaking. Read MORE on BRAND X...
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Sunday, October 3, 2010
Vendanges!
La saison des vendanges commence! [Transl. = Wine Harvest is Here!]
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