French Wine My Way

By Sallie Robbins-Druian

GETTING STARTED

Let's face it.  Wine is complicated.  And French wine is a swirling maelstrom of history,  government control, regional divides, family in-fighting, and basic chemistry.  But must we know every little detail to understand what we like when we drink it?

I want to demystify French wine.  I want to simplify French wine.  I want to drink French wine without reading volumes and memorizing details.  I want to know about the people and families who make the wine, and how they feel about their commitment and drive for perfection.  But honestly, I simply want to breath-in the aroma, take-in the first sip, savor the wine, linger on the mid-palette and head for the finish line with a smile of satisfaction.

It's like searching for the Holy Grail.  Except we are searching for magic in a bottle.   And it can be elusive.  But isn't the thrill of the hunt in the searching?  How do we begin such a journey?  Must we climb to the top of a French mountain for enlightenment?   Should we read a book or check wikipedia for each regional grape variety?  Or might we jump right into the deep end and go for it!  I say jump, but with some thought as to how to organize and accomplish this search.

Make it easy on yourself and create your own Tour de France.  Pick a wine region such as the Loire Valley or Burgundy.  Or select a varietal such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir.  Then choose one wine each from three different producers for comparison.  Congratulations!  You have just created a wine tasting.     You have now entered The Wild and Wonderful World of Wine Subjectivity.  Pat yourself on the back.  You have already graduated without taking the exams.

It doesn't matter what wine critic Robert Parker says or the local wine columnist professes.  It only matters what YOU think when you inhale the aroma and linger over the first tastes.  And remember, Mr. Parker was a beer drinker until he met a pretty French girl he wanted to impress.  He got the girl and he built a career from practice, practice, practice.

TASTING PEP TALK Now it is your turn.  First check the color and clarity, and then the aroma.  When you take the first sip of any wine, take a mouthful and acclimate your mouth.  On your second and third sips, pull the wine slowly over your tongue to get some aeration.

It's like inhaling through your mouth with pursed lips.  Feel how the wine settles on your tongue midway, giving you an impression of body and texture.  Sense the depth of flavor and how it finishes.  Did it drop off like a stone?  Did it linger on your tongue then quietly disappear?  Or did the flavor burst like a ripe peach spreading multiple layers of liquid goodness!

It's your call.  Because wine is subjective.  And it is all about you.  First, is it tasty?  Do you like it?  Then this wine is a winner.  And so are you.  Then move on to wine number two with wine notes in hand from wine number one.  Look forward to comparing the two and challenging yourself.  What are the differences, the pluses and minuses?  Think of the strengths in flavor.  Does it interest you?  Are you now curious about wine number three?

Then let 'er rip and move forward!  With regard to "Wine Notes", try to create your own vocabulary in describing the wines you taste.  You've heard or read the pros pronounce the ultimate descriptives: asphalt, barnyard, grass, leather, tobacco, licorice et cetera.  It's a world of Jelly Belly flavors out there but it means nothing unless you discover the descriptive word yourself.

Besides attending trade tastings, we do private events and tasting classes on a regular basis, and sometimes it is even difficult for us to find the right descriptive word.  The secret is to not try too hard.  Keep an open mind and let the aroma and taste lead you.  Sometimes it takes only one inhalation and sometimes it takes more little sniffs and multiple sips.  Take your time and go slowly.  Occasionally the aroma will be contrary to the taste, as I recently discovered with a Cotes du Luberon (Rhone Valley) I had in Paris this August.  I will now add "nail polish" to my wine vocabulary.  OK, lets be chic and use the French name "varnis".  I had no chance to think about it, because it hit me in the nose before I could open my mouth.  The thought of tasting it was off-putting, but I lifted my glass and sipped like a sparrow.

Pure amazement and happiness danced in my mouth.  The alcohol-prominent nose settled-down and the wine was enjoyed as we continued with our meal.    Now let's take it up a notch.  Let's talk about food.  Let us think about food.  Give yourself a food challenge and think about what foods will go with these wines you have just tasted.  It's a creative opportunity.  It's only a matter of taste.  Your taste.  You will not be judged by The Napoleonic Court of Food & Wine.  The ball is in your court.  Use your own good sense.  Think of contrasts.

VARIATIONS ON A THEME: SAUVIGNON BLANC

Take Sauvignon Blanc as an example.  Think about the minerality, what it does to your mouth, the clean crispness and the contrast potential.  Opposites do attract.  Perhaps a creamy seafood pasta with prawns or bay shrimp?  With perhaps a small side of dressed baby greens with a splash of EVOO and a grind of sea salt.  Or Patron peppers, sauteed in EVOO with a touch if sea salt.  Keep it simple as you go.  Don't complicate your attempt in pairing a wine with food.  Trust your instincts and use your imagination.  Practice, practice, practice and begin your pairings conservatively, layering as you gain confidence.

However, the first order of business is to concentrate on tasting the wine and it's flavors.   For those of you who seek the perfect cocktail wines, ask yourself if this wine, this fresh and zippy Sauvignon Blanc that you have just sampled, stand-alone.  From your third sip you will know for absolute sure and even perhaps from the first mouthful.  But always give French wine a chance for adjustment when tasting.  It's more layered and complex by nature and design.  And remember, your body chemistry can change your first impressions of any wine.

Did you brush your teeth just before tasting?  Did you have a bad day at the gym?  Did you have to fight the boss or traffic before arriving home?  If so, then  try to chill and take a break.  Give yourself a small positive distraction, and relax for a few moments with a few deep breaths.  Stress and wine are not amiable companions, and the aroma and taste can be affected or even soured, giving a false impression of the wine.

TASTING FOR REAL

So enough of this theoretical chit-chat and let's get on to a real-time practice run with three of the same French varietals from three different producers.  But let's add a twist to make it more interesting.  We will pick two very different Sauvignon Blancs from the region of the Loire Valley, but add a Sauvignon Blanc blend from Bordeaux as the third selection.

We are including the varietal, but adding an unusual use of the grape from another region.  You can change-up the rules if you keep the varietals a common denominator.  Anyway, it's your tasting and you have thrown an interesting curve.  Note:  Always taste in the order of least complexity to the most, in order to not overwhelm your taste buds.  If you aren't familiar with the wines or French wines for that matter, always ask your wine merchant or search online for flavor profiles and recommendations.

NUMBER ONE is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc 2009 TOURAINE VAL DE LOIRE SAUVIGNON from the biodynamically farmed eastern Loire Valley vineyards of highly respected producer Francois Chidaine.  We will get to the subject of biodynamics later.  Let's first pop the cork and pour.  What is the first impression from the color and aroma?  What are the qualities positive and negative?

Can you pick-up the earthiness and acidity in the nose?  After you have taken your first mouthful and subsequent sips, can you sense the minerality and long refreshing finish?  Is the body heavy with herbaceous or grassy undertones or is it clean and crisp, reminding you that this could be  a perfect match for goat cheese or even oysters.  What would pan-sauteed and salted almonds do to enhance these flavors?

Your mind races to find creative ways to pair this wine with food.  Congratulations!  You have opened the door to what good wine is all about!  And one, that won't break the bank at $17.    Please note: I cannot improve on the information regarding Francois Chidaine and his biodynamic farming provided by the importer Michael Sullivan at www.beauneimports.com.  Michael also lists on his website, retail sources where you can purchase these wines in the San Francisco Bay Area and beyond.  All three Sauvignon Blancs in this discussion are his imports.

Moving on to NUMBER TWO, a 100% Sauvignon Blanc 2008 DOMAINE PELLE MENETOU-SALON BLANC MOROGUES from the small appellation of revered winemaker, Henri Pelle, located slightly south of Sancerre in the Loire Valley.  He is known for the exceptional quality of his vineyards chalky clay soil.  You can refer to the Beaune Imports website for further details on the "Kimmeridgian" soil and production notes.  But let's get on with what we are here for.  Tasting!  Continue with the same glass, simply swirl with a little of the new wine and toss.  Never rinse your wine glass with water because it will dilute the next pour.

This Sauvignon Blanc is a special one.  Pull the cork and pour.  Then take in the aroma in a deep breath.  Pull from your vocabulary of descriptive words and apply.  Or think of a new one.  Do you detect mineral and lemon?  Is it juicy or dry?  Or do you pick-up a scent of honey.  Now it's time for the unveiling.

Take a slow deep sip.  Then take another sip or two.  Think about the strong and long fruit-forward mid-palette taste and the level of acidity.  Do they work in harmony?  Does this wine not have the most amazing balance?  Now can you understand why soil can make the difference between a good wine a great wine.  This is refined, sophisticated and perfectly balanced.  It zings!

And it has great finesse.  It's potential for food pairing is exciting to consider.  Michael Sullivan notes that it is crisp, yet rich with exotic fruit flavors.  Is that what you think?  This could be a Caesar salad wine.  This could be a creamy seafood pasta wine.  Or a perfect choice for a creamy lemon-drizzled, avocado-shrimp cocktail with cilantro.  And as I discovered,  it is a hand-made sea salt potato chip kind of wine.  The Menetou-Salon elevates the simple chip to a whole new level as it plays off the oil and sea salt.

This is a major "wow" factor that shows how good wine can take any humble food and transform it.  But consider this also as a stand-alone wine that allows you to take in the sheer perfection from aroma to finish, and follow the layers of complexity.  It is simply one of the finest Sancerres ever made, and is a bargain at $25.

We are close to the finish with NUMBER THREE, which is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc with 20% Semillon and 10% Muscadelle grapes.  This is a 2008 CHATEAU SAINTE-MARIE ENTRE-DEUX-MERS from the region of Bordeaux.  This is a Grand Vin de Bordeaux (a great wine from Bordeaux with no specific meaning) made from "Vieilles Vignes" (old vines).  "Saint-Marie" refers to the vintner's family residence that formerly was a nunnery.  "Entre-Deux-Mers" translates to "the land between two bodies of water", which refers to the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers which border the hilly hand-picked vineyards of over-achievers and organic/biodynamic wine producers, Gilles and Stephane Dupuch.  Learn more about them and their production techniques on the Beaune Imports website.

Note that Semillon (also the grape of Sauternes) is a rich honeyed blending grape that shines with Sauvignon Blanc.  Muscadelle is a spicy grape variety that is blended in white Bordeaux in very small doses to balance and enhance the fruit.   All this discussion has made me ready to get tasting.  Get that cork out and pour.

Check the color and get your nose into a glass and take a slow, deep breath.  Does the aroma strike you as something similar or different from the other two wines?  You know by now that this is the most complex Sauvignon Blanc of our line-up.  You know that the blending grapes have to make a difference in the basic flavor profile.  Are you curious?  Then take a big sip and let it saturate your mouth.  Is it crisp with a complex and refined minerality?  No?

Then please take another sip.  Is there a clear fruit- forward flavor from the mid-palette to the finish?  Note the depth of flavor.  It's like biting into a bursting ripe grape infused with honey.  The blend of the Semillon and Muscadelle do not intimidate the Sauvignon Blanc.

They enhance it.  This is another "stand-alone" wine.  In fact, it is a great cocktail wine for the price of $20.  And a wine that yet inspires interesting food pairings.  I find that this works perfectly with a crispy chicken liver salad on a bed of greens, grilled or pan-fried sardines, or any savory food that has a bit of acidity.  It is bold and perhaps deeper in flavors than the other two wines.  This Sauvignon Blanc blend is layered with complexity, crisp acidity, flavors on many levels, and can take on any food pairing challenge.

FINAL THOUGHTS  So now you have experienced three unique Sauvignon Blancs.  Did it meet your expectations?  Did it surprise you?  Did it show you differences, similarities or even possibilities from the aromas to the mouthfuls?  Did the value of the wine surpass the price?  I am betting it did.  If you are happy with the results, then now is the time to plan your next tasting into another region of France.  For myself, I will look next to the reds of the Rhone Valley and find three interesting wines in common to compare.

I have purposefully avoided lengthy paragraphs about history, production, climate and soil.  I believe you can get a great sense of history by TASTING the wines of France.  You will continue to gain an appreciation for any good wine, by the goodness of the grapes and the inspired efforts of the winemakers.  Still, we should be reminded that if it was not for the Phoenicians, the Greeks and the Romans, there would be no French wine, let alone the wines of California.

You have now earned the right to the use of the French word "terroir".  I paraphrase the classic definition offered by Bruno Prats, former owner of Chateau Cos d'Estournel in Bordeaux.  Terroir is the combination of the climate, soil and landscape that forms the character of a vineyard and its wines.  And when it is great, it is magic in a bottle.  Remember lastly, it is no accident that wines go well with food.

Winemakers think first of their own tables and practice, practice, practice.  The best advice I ever heard to accomplish the perfect match with food, is always try to think of the wine as a secondary "sauce" for the dish.  Amen and pass the wine.

SALLIE ROBBINS-DRUIAN  Sallie Robbins-Druian along with her husband Jay Druian, are the owners of The French Cellar in Los Gatos.  They sell regional wines and objects from France.

TWITTER.COM/LOCALFOODWINE

*LOCAL FOOD AND WINE*

FACEBOOK/LOCALFOODANDWINE

Posted via email from Local Food And Wine

Domaine Le Pointu, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape

Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc. Domaine le Pointu.

Châteauneuf du Pape Is White It's like a natural reflex, certain wines, varietals, regions make us think automatically of a color of the wine. Red, White, Rosé. This is one of the most gratifying symptoms of entering more deeply into the world of wine, learning that, for example,a brilliant Châteauneuf du Pape comes in a white as well.

We've recognized it before and we'll say it again, good winemakers are always the first to say that wine starts in the vineyard, on the vines.  After seeing and participating in several harvests and talking to dozens of winemakers and vineyard hands, I couldn't agree more...with the caveat that the methods differ greatly from vineyard to vineyard with some focusing on vineyard farming as opposed to vine husbanding.

Tending AOC Chateauneuf-du-Pape vines through the seasons.

Vine Husbanding

 After a mere 5 years in the heart of Provence's Châteauneuf du Pape AOC, Patrick Coste, with wife Karine, has proven just what can be accomplished with vineyards and a cellar when good strong methods of vine husbanding are carried through from the vineyard to the fermentation tanks to the barrels and, finally, to the bottles. 

Domaine Le Pointu. Cotes Rhone.

It was only in 2004 that the first harvest of Domaine le Pointu went into their vats.  "Le Pointu is the name of one of our vineyard plots planted with white grapes; it is located on a hillside near the wood of Château Rayas," explained Mssr. Coste, the younger. Patrick's father, Maurice, is the former President of the Courthézon Cooperative Cellar. Courthézon is where the winery of the 27- hectare, 5 year old Domaine is located.  Six hectares of vineyards are in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation, 11 in the Côtes du Rhône appellation and 10 in Vin de Pays.

Significant terroir. The rocks transmit the warmth from the sun to the vines at night. This creates a special ripening process for these AOC Chateauneuf du Pape grapes.

Le Pointu vines from that plateau butt up against the the renowned vines of Beaucastel, signaling the same terroir. Still, it does come down to technique. And there's quite a difference between farming and harvesting and husbanding and tending.  The signature terroir of these vines are large rocks that transmit the heat from the sunshine they absorb in the warm Provenςal days to the vines at night, thus aiding in the slow maturation and warm ripening of the grapes. The French term for this terroir is galets roulés.

Karine and Patrick Coste. Domaine Le Pointu.

Land of The Rising Sun Success has come quickly for the husband and wife team who named two of their best vintages so far after their first two sons, Clément and Mathieu.

With a combination of marketing and good, solid, French countryside people skills, Patrick was able, straight out of the gate, to get the attention of Japan's President of the Association of International Sommeliers, Kazuyoshi Kogai at Japan's Foodex Salon 2007. A contract with a leading Japanese cosmetics company has fallen into place since then which has Domaine Le Pointu supplying gift boxes of wines for the company during holidays.

On your next trip through Provence, be sure to stop at Domaine Le Pointu.

Domaine Le Pointu will also be the wine supplier for Paris-Dakar for this year's races.  Good vineyard practices, solid people skills and knowing when and who, to ask for advice seems to be the Coste's winning recipe here. The reputed Bordeaux wine consultant, Christian Prud'Homme, has been advising Patrick Coste on the vinification process, notably the barrels he uses at Le Pointu, which are all Bordeaux barrels.

And the wines themselves? Well, they've already earned the attention of Bettane & Desseauve, Robert Parker, Andréas Larsson and Jancis Robinson. Personally I would recommend anything from their 2007 run, whether it's their Côtes du Rhône  - especially Cuvée Le Vieux Chêne - or Châteauneuf du Pape, particularly Cuvée Clément and Mathieu, both made from vines 90-105 years old with a production of 10000 and 8000 bottles respectively. Each are Grenache noir and Cinsault noir and from different vintage years. 

But the wine that got me super excited was Domaine le Pointu's Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Spéciale Feuilles d'Or (label pictured above). It is made with organically cultivated grapes, indeed the Domaine will be certified organic in 2011, from 90 year old vines. This wine is made from the famous terroir of galets roulés. White Châteauneuf du Pape wines represent only 4% of the total production of the appellation.  It has a delicate bouquet, floral with a touch of fruit, citrus. It makes a nice aperitif when young but you can keep it 2-5 years and pair it with herb-encrusted fish, veal and fresh cheeses.  Total of 2000  (two thousand) bottles.

Domaine Le Pointu, 255 Chemin de la Grande Allee, 84350 Courthezon, France.  www.domaine-le-pointu.com

TWITTER.COM/LOCALFOODWINE

*LOCAL FOOD AND WINE*

FACEBOOK/LOCALFOODANDWINE

Posted via email from Local Food And Wine

Chateau Haut-Brion – A Bordeaux First Growth Loved by Poets, Philosophers and Presidents for 350 Years

by Loren Sonkin

Excerpted From IntoWine.com

In 1935 the estate was rescued by an American.  Financier Clarence Dillon purchased the property for 2.3 million francs.  Dillon named his nephew Seymour Weller as president of Société Vinicole de la Gironde, a position he held until his retirement in 1975 at age 83. 

Chateau Haut-Brion, Bordeaux

Under Weller, the chai was cleaned and improved and “modern” technology was implemented.  Perhaps the key stroke to restoring the estate was the hiring of George Delmas as winemaker and manager.  George retired in 1961 and was succeeded by his son Jean-Bernard who invested time and effort in clonal research.  It was his belief that great wine required different clones (strains) of each grape varietal.  Each hectare is reputed to have 10 to 15 different clonal selections.  The property is now under the direction of the third generation of Delmas, Jean-Phillipe Delmas, who has been in charge since 2003.   The Dillon family still controls the estate today headed up by Prince Robert of Luxembourg, the Président Directeur Général of what is now called Domaine Clarence Dillon SA.

Prince Robert, Scion of Chateau Haut-Brion

Besides the grand vin which is labeled as Chateau Haut-Brion, they make a second wine.  The second wine is called Clarence de Haut-Brion, but before 2007 it was known as Bahans Haut Brion.  They also make Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc, a white wine which is a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc and is one of the best and most expensive dry white wines in the world.  Occasionally release a second white called Les Plantiers du Haut-Brion.  

Grapes have undoubtedly been cultivated on this land since the 1400s.  By 1700 the entire estate consisted of 650 acres and there were 94 acres under vine.  Today 120 acres are planted to red grapes:  45.4% to Merlot, 43.9% to Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.7% to Cabernet Franc, and 1% to Petit Verdot.  In addition, just over 7seven acres are planted with white grapes:  52.6% Semillon and 47.4% Sauvignon Blanc.  The average age of the vines is 35 to 40 years with the oldest vines dating back to the 1930s.  The soil is Günzian gravel with some portions of the vineyard having large amounts of clay.  

After hand harvesting, the fruit is sorted in the field.  The grapes are then fermented on natural yeasts in stainless steel vats.  It is a special tank that allows the fermentation to take place on the top and the malolactic fermentation to happen on the bottom.  These were first used in 1961, and although are very common now in Bordeaux, were quite an innovation.  Chateau Haut-Brion has its own cooperage for making their barrels.  The wine is then stored in barrels for two years or longer.  In the past, the wine was aged in 100% new oak, but now they use 35% new oak (25% for the le Clarence).  The white wine sees 45% new oak and is aged for 12 months.  

Annual production is around 12,000 cases for the grand vin and 800 cases for the Blanc.  Annual production for the Le Clarence is around 5,000 cases.  

Haut Brion is recognizable for the shape of its bottle, in use since the 1958 vintage, which are based on an old decanter shape.  The wines are made to age.  While some vintages may be delicious on release the wines really need at least a decade to show their quality.  The 1970 vintage of Haut-Brion ranked fourth among the ten French and California red wines in the historic 1976 Judgment of Paris wine competition.  I suspect that the 1970 Haut Brion, which was never a great vintage, is still drinkable and enjoyable.  

Haut-Brion has been very consistent in quality over the last fifty plus years.  Like the other first growths the price has gotten silly expensive.  Yet, it often remains one of the less expensive of the first growths perhaps stemming from its location in Graves and not the Medoc.  In any event, the price is now over $500 per bottle in the recent stellar vintages of 2005 and 2009.  Perhaps better value can be found in the 2003 or 2008 vintages where a bottle can be obtained for under $300.  I have been lucky enough to try about twenty vintages of this great wine.  Personally, the best two vintages of Haut-Brion I have had are the amazing 1989 and the will-probably-be-even-better-with-more-age 2000.  Those wines are two of the most profound wines I have ever, and most likely will ever taste.  Unfortunately, the 1989 now sells for over $1,000 a bottle while the 2000 can still be “had” for around $500.  

Haut-Brion’s neighbor is Chateau La Mission Haut Brion.  These two chateaus have had a historic rivalry for over 50 years.  Some say the rivalry ended when Domaine Clarence Dillon purchased La Mission in 1983.  I am not so sure.  In fact, while there is always bottle variation on a wine that old, the 1989 La Mission Haut Brion remains the best red wine I have ever tasted.  Both wines are excellent, but Haut-Brion still retains one advantage, the honor of being classified as a Premier Cru back in 1855.  READ ENTIRE ARTICLE ON IntoWine.com

TWITTER.COM/LOCALFOODWINE

*LOCAL FOOD AND WINE*

FACEBOOK/LOCALFOODANDWINE

Posted via email from Local Food And Wine

Corsica - L'île de Beauté

Cape Corsica.

Corsica, off the French south coast, produces delicious dry white and subtle rosé wines that are best drunk chilled, young and fresh as an aperitif or to accompany light meals of seafood, salads, tapas.

Wine of Corsica is the common appellation to all the wines of Corsica, with the following AOC classifications related to either the soils or the villages in which the vineyards are grown: Ajaccio, Calvi, Coteaux du Cap Corse et Muscat du Cap Corse, Figari Patrimonio, Porto-Vecchio, Sartène.

While Corsica is definitely "south of France," it does not fall under the newly minted branding of "Sud de France," a term that is being used by the region of Languedoc-Roussillon as they voyage forth once again onto the world export stage with their wines and other agricultural products.

Corsican wines are one of those "well-kept secrets." The island, which the French call "L'île de Beauté," produces some great wines but they aren't exported much overseas...yet. Set in the Mediterranean Sea, many of the island's wines originate from Italy.  The sun's reflection on both  white rocks and the Mediterranean brings even more energy to the vine which, combined with low yields, will eventually produce a very concentrated grape.

Typical Corsican Village. Perched between the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea.

• Cap Corse Wine This white wine is pretty rare and much appreciated by winelovers. Many agree that it is the best white wine in Corsica.
• Sartene Wine This is an excellent wine, and the red San Michele is definitely a must-taste. These are fruity and warm Corsican wines.

• Patrimonio This wine is as famous as the classic Corsican appellation and its quality is constantly growing.  Corsican reds and whites are increasingly famous even out of the island. Patrimonio rosé wines are also fine wines. Patrimonio wines have a pretty strong character that originate from the soil, which is composed mostly of clay and limestone. This Corsican wine is full-bodied but still light and fruity.
• Ajaccio The Ajaccio French wine boasts the distinction of being the most elevated wine region in France. Most of its vineyards are located 500 m and above. This Corsica wine benefits from the warm weather, and the sea air provides it with a very particular flavor too. This French wine fully benefits from the Corsican environment thus it is light coloured, fruity and has a pronounced pepper flavor in the mouth. The Ajaccio soil is mostly granite.

They also have excellent beaches in Corsica!

Corsican Beaches.

*Local Food And Wine*

Twitter.com/localfoodwine

FaceBook/LocalFoodAndWine

Posted via email from Local Food And Wine

2004 Château La Bienfaisance 'Sanctus' Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

By: The Wine Spies

(http://thewinespies.com)

Mission Codename: Holy Vines

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a delicious and exclusive Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Bordeaux for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Château La Bienfaisance

Wine Subject: 2004 ‘Sanctus’ Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Winemaker: Didr Peytour

Backgrounder: The movie Sideways may have tried to kill Merlot, but real wine lovers know that the joke is on the character Miles. He boldly proclaims: ”If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any [censored] Merlot!”, Really, and his favorite wine is Chateau Cheval Blanc? Chateau Cheval Blanc, like today’s selection from Château La Bienfaisance is a Saint-Émilion, a Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend. (For those not lucky enough to have enjoyed a Cheval Blanc, it is about 60% Cab Franc 37% Merlot and the remainder other varietals)

Fellow Wine Spies know that the wines from Saint-Émilion Grand Cru have been treasured since the times that the Romans initially cultivated Bordeaux’s vineyards of the Rive Droite. Each Grand Cru vineyard has its own varietal composition and this selection is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, and is heavily influenced by the region’s famed Terroir of Graves and ancient sand.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense garnet and purple with a barely clear core that is nearly inky in character. Along the edges, the color shows ruby red highlights and when swirled fast thin evenly spaced legs ring the glass.

Smell – Well developed and balanced aromas of dark fruit including black cherry and blackberry are layered over sweet vanilla oak notes, smokey spice, hints of black licorice and earthy undertones.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this supple full-bodied wine is classic ‘right-bank’ in character with finely textured tannins that are supported by its lively but balanced acidity and Terrior driven minerality.

Taste – Classically old-world with reserved flavors of blackberry, cassis and black cherry meld perfectly with sweet oak flavors, spice and cigar tobacco. The licorice, herbal and earthy aromas found on the nose also make an appearance on the palate and add complexity to this lovely mature wine.

Finish – Medium long in length with this wine’s restrained fruit fading away softly as the classic supple and fine textured structure lingers on.

Conclusion – The 2004 Château La Bienfaisance ’ Sanctus’ Saint-Emilion Grand Cru is a delicious example of with the right bank still rules with lovers of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Exceptional balance, great old world complexity and finesse, a lovely wine that will continue to age well for the next 5 to 10 years, perhaps longer!

Mission Report:

Château La Bienfaisance winemaker Didr Peytour is very busy and was quite hard to catch, we did get a brief opportunity to ask him a few questions and below is a transcript of our conversation.

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

SUBJECT: Didr Peytour

AGENT WHITE: Bonjour Didr, We are thrilled to be showing your 2004 ‘Sanctus’ Saint-Émilion Grand Cru today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DIDR: You’re welcome – I’m excited to have our 2004 Sanctus, our flagship wine featured on The Wine Spies.

WHITE: What is your background in wine or grapes?

DIDR: I have a higher technician certificate in Viticulture and Enology.

WHITE: Is there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DIDR: I’ve loved wine since my childhood.

WHITE: How long have you been making wine?

DIDR: I’ve been making wine for 23 years.

WHITE: What is your philosophy of winemaking?

DIDR: The gentle extraction of tannins to reveal the wine’s true character.

WHITE: What is your favorite grape variety?

DIDR: I love Cabernet Franc, one of the two varietals represented in this delicious wine.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

DIDR: It’s a wine that is fully characteristic of the region. Its rich and opulent but has good acidity due to the moderating influence of ocean climate in Bordeaux. WHITE: In your opinion, what makes your ‘Sanctus’ so special?

DIDR: The Terroir of Saint-Émilion is among the best in France

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DIDR: We are currently working on the 2009 vintage.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Saint-Émilion along the rive droite of the Dordogne (and the Gironde) can be seen in this satellite photo.

 

Twitter.com/localfoodwine

*Local Food And Wine *

FaceBook/LocalFoodAndWine

 

Posted via email from Local Food And Wine

Laughing Along The Bench

May long weekend was one of those where the sun cooperated with the clouds and both were in harmonic concert with the calendar. Which is to say, May long weekend was spectacular for wine tasting afternoons.

The Naramata Bench always invites,...perhaps it's the lake views, the easy meandering route - in via one road, out via the same road - or, just maybe, it's the wines themselves that consistently beckon.

A quick easy snack of Eggers at The Bench specialty market and cafe' as I started my journey provided fortification for the enjoyably foreseen alcohol consumption. Most days I spit, today I had decided to swirl. There's something grand about being on vacation in wine territory and not the designated driver...

The few outdoor tables at The Bench Market hosted clusters of Gelato lickers and some chowing down on their more substantial wraps and sandwiches. The little specialty cafe' that sits at the doorway to the Naramata Bench is such a fun place to poke around. I love looking through their tray of Naramata Handmade Seeds and imagine what it would be like to plant some Cape Gooseberry, perhaps some Togo Trefle, or even some Gigantesque or Ste. Lucie. All the seeds are “open-pollinated, grown in Naramata by natural chemical-free methods.” At $3.00 per packet, they make great gifts and garden projects. You can also find Okanagan Harvest Cake here. It comes vacuum-packed so you can take this deliciousness home for savoring later if you wish (and if willpower permits).

The Naramata Bench can be as much a treasure treat hunt as it is a wine tasting trail. With this thought, the first stop was in at Poplar Grove where they make, and sell, cheese and wine. The ever popular Poplar Grove boasted a packed tasting counter. The clamor for cheese could be heard even above the soft patter of the wine sippers. Fairly early in the day still, there were only three rounds of their Naramata Bench Blue cheese left. Fortune smiled on me that day as I was handed one of the precious rounds. Seems their 20% off sale on the cheese had precipitated a cheese run throughout the day.

But, first things first, so I made my way through their tasting flight. Outstanding is their Cabernet Franc '06. They hold their wines longer than anyone in the valley and this Cab Franc lives up to its, “Black Forest Cake In A Bottle,” reputation. Ripe, red fruits, silky cocoa. Their Ogopogo label also caught my eye from a design perspective but once you taste their '06 Cab Franc it's kind of hard (sorry!) to remember what came before that. As I worked through my purchases, I was delighted to see that the cheese came out to only $6. That was the deal of the day.

Back out on the main road I saw that the Marichel Vineyards' sign was proclaiming they were open. I had been wanting to stop in for some time, even just to take in the iconic Okanagan Lake views from their patio. Funny, but the definitive pictures you mostly see of the Okanagan are actually of Vaseux Lake and not the Okanagan.

Twice in the course of an afternoon, fortune blessed me as the sun was high overhead and the views from Marichel Vineyards patio were, well, iconic Lake Okanagan. Marichel's exquisitely trimmed vineyards that sit on the “Bench,” or bluff right there delight tribes of quail. It would be easy enough to spend a whole afternoon just watching the quail and their little quail babies weave through the manicured vines and talk to Richard and Elizabeth Roskell, Marichel Vineyard owners and winemakers.

Marichel's '07 Syrah is melt in your mouth good. If Syrah could be a dark chocolate in a bottle, this is it.

Marichel's tasting room is like one you'd find in Argentina. The comfortably-sized room opening up onto the outdoor veranda is furnished with a tasting table, a big wooden picnic table with benches that invites you to have a seat, take a moment, and enjoy the experience of tasting wine. The Roskells were the first on the bench to plant Viognier, so their vines now are 11 years old – and beautiful!

Their property features a gulch on it which serves to divide the acreage into “eight little different vineyard blocks, with different soils even,” explains Elizabeth. She remembers all too well when she and her husband Richard were out auguring the soil with a pickaxe to get the young vines in. She laughs and says that, yes, they are always open, it's just that often they are in the vineyard working. But they enjoy very much meeting and hosting people for tastings; It's just best to call ahead if you want to be sure to be greeted at the gate.

Their Syrah is well worth making the appointment for. Richard has planted six different Syrah blocks, and they expect each to be signature different. As you gaze out their veranda onto the golden afternoon sun-drenched lake you see a lone pine tree on the bluff, that is where they've planted their Sunset Block of Syrah.

On the afternoon I stopped in Elizabeth was pouring Marichel Syrah '07. As she poured the dark berry hued wine into the full, stemless tasting glass I could already see that I was in for a treat. I cupped the glass in the warmth of my hand and swirled the ripe juice to aid its flavor release. I could almost feel it melting in the glass. Elizabeth was telling me how one of her pastimes is baking and that she makes a dark chocolate cake where she soaks the cherries in this Syrah before cooking them in the cake.

Time to taste: Marichel's '07 Syrah is melt in your mouth good. If Syrah could be a dark chocolate in a bottle, this is it. Its nose, ever so slightly brisk, belies the full-bodied maturity of the vintage, hints of leather, a whiff of Autumn leaves. The mouth is full, velvety, smooth, round, well-balanced, specialized, with red fruits and a Godiva dark chocolate finish.

A few moments at Marichal Vineyards and you've carved into memory indelible images of Naramata taste, sight and sunshine.

It's said that laughter is the best therapy, so a must-stop was Laughingstock Vineyards. A table with crazy fun hats was on display to greet tasters. But really crazy hats, and big mirrors, to try them on and see which ones fit. Hats came in varietals like a WWII fighter pilot with goggles, Jimmi Hendrix afro wig, pointed Merlin's hat, Argentine Bolero, a witch's black hat, a chicken-o-your-head hat...and more.

“It's to remind us not to take ourselves too seriously,” stated the lady pouring Laughing Stock's tasting flight, explaining that it's only for special occasions that they put out the hats.

Not to miss in their flight is their Portfolio '07 which is a blend of 56% Merlot 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. Vines magazine calls it one of Canada's “icon wines.”

Out in mid-June is their Pinot Noir '09. Looking forward to trying it as they did not release a Pinot Noir for '08. Also worth noting is their Syrah, with a Viognier blend, will be out soon. Now that sounds interesting...

Lunch on the patio at Hillside Estate Winery is a Bench landmark. Their new chef began back in April and even simple dishes of steamed mussels in a red sauce with some dipping bread can showcase why it's so great to be alive.

Hillside Estate Winery is one of the only wineries in the Valley to do a Muscat. They are also the only winery in all of Canada to do a Muscat Ottonel. The original owner of Hillside Estate Winery brought her 6 vines of Ottonel over in her backpack from Czechoslovakia. “She probably would have gotten into trouble, had she been caught. But she wasn't, so now we have this beautiful Muscat and thousands of Ottonel vines,” explained the tasting room pourer.

Kathy Malone is their winemaker and I wouldn't leave Hillside without trying their, Muscat Ottonel '09, '07 Reserve Merlot and also their '09 Gewurztraminer. The tasting room at Hillside Estate is always going to be full on weekends, so just hang in and press on 'til it's your turn at the tasting bar. Then dig in and enjoy.

A day of laughter and wine wouldn't be complete without a sojourn at Therapy Vineyards and Guesthouse. Therapy Vineyards' winemaker, Steve Latchford, makes a Malbec that's been getting people talking. He uses grapes grown down in Oliver. On the Naramata Bench, they have 7 acres under cultivation, though the property is so impressive, down there at the end of the Bench, that it's easy to think they have vast more under cultivation. Their Malbec is the first wine in Canada to feature a hockey player on the label. Go figure!

People flock in for the Freudian Sip; Aged eight months in French Oak gives this Chardonnay a strong spine. Their “Pink Freud,” rose' is also a crowd pleaser. Therapy Vineyards is one of the few wineries on the Bench that has a Guesthouse. It's a tough choice between there and the Naramata Heritage Inn And Spa. On a sunny summer weekend, it'll probably just come down to whoever has the first, or last remaining, opening.

 

Twitter.com/LocalFoodWine

Okanagan Food And Wine *  Vancouver Food And  Wine

*Local Food And Wine *

FaceBook/LocalFoodAndWine

Posted via web from Okanagan Food And Wine

Baboons Go Ape For Grapes

Yes, the World Cup is just days away.  And as you gather with friends to watch the games, you likely will be inspired to do some tastings of the very reputable S. African wines.  After all, their vineyards are some of the oldest under cultivation.

Can't See The VIDEO: Click HERE

A novelty that hasn't been lost on the nation's baboon population!

Taking the notion of "critter" wines to an altogether new level, South African vineyard managers have to outsmart and outmaneuver a pest of the monkey variety...turns out baboons find the sugar and starch of grapes altogether irresistible!  They particularly go in for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes.

Here's what's been reported in the popular press:

by: Nastasya Tay  [Johannesburg]

Baboons, it seems, prefer pinot noir. They also like a nice chardonnay. Largely undeterred by electric fences, hundreds of wild baboons in South Africa's prized winelands are feasting on ripe, succulent grapes, forcing winemakers to use noisemakers and rubber snakes to try to drive them off during this harvest season.

"The poor baboons are driven to distraction," said Justin O'Riain, who works in the Baboon Research Unit of the University of Cape Town. "As far as baboons are concerned, the combination of starch and sugar is very attractive – and that's your basic grape."

Growers say the picky primates are partial to sweet pinot noir grapes, adding to the winemakers' woe, for pinot noir sells for more than the average merlot or cabernet sauvignon.

Fauna Dynamics

Wine Spectator's Harvey Steiman has even gone so far as to report that South African vineyards are now training baboons to harvest the grapes. So if you plan on lending a hand during crush, you might just find yourself harvesting side-by-side with a  few brethren baboons...

From Wine Specatator:

It turns out that the baboons are actually being trained to harvest the grapes themselves (the trick is keeping them well-fed so that they don’t do any on-the-job snacking). It’s all part of the latest viticultural movement known as FaunaDynamics, in which human labor is all but eliminated in the vineyard. Zoologists at the San Diego Zoo claim their 100 percent FaunaDynamic teaching vineyard will be online by 2014 (rhesus monkey-directed draft horses have just completed plowing a 4.1-acre parcel). Peregrine falcon nests surround the vineyard to protect it from grape-hungry starlings, and several of the zoo’s primates have been sent to the Cape to learn harvest methods from Stellenbosch’s simians. Not surprisingly, PETA has already announced plans to protest the first harvest.

If you'd like to drink some of the wines made from the grapes the baboons go in for, we suggest starting with these:

Quoin Rock [Excerpted from The Wine Doctor]

The Quoin Rock winery is located in Stellenbosch where the climate is continental (warm and dry summers, cool winters), although Carl van de Merwe was keen to stress that the summer temperatures are hot rather than merely warm. He clearly has no problems with ripeness of fruit, although he has had challenges protecting the sugar-rich fruit from the local baboon population prior to harvest; the marauding monkeys have a habit of responding to the sweet aromas of ripeness with a pillaging of the vineyard. The solution has been to install electric fences to protect the harvest and vines.

There were three wines on show from Quoin Rock, including recent vintages of the estate's Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The Sauvignon Blanc is mostly fermented in steel, with a minor portion fermented in barrel. The wine is left on its lees for six months before bottling, the intention being to engender a fuller, more creamy mouthfeel. The Chardonnay meanwhile is 100% barrel-fermented, with 30% of the oak new in this vintage. The third wine was a 2004 Syrah.

Twitter.com/localfoodwine

Okanagan Food And Wine *  Vancouver Food And  Wine

*Local Food And Wine *

FaceBook/LocalFoodAndWine

Posted via web from Local Food And Wine