Monday, July 9, 2018

Lanson + Viticulture Durable en Champagne (VDC)

by Paige Donner

Tasted today at Pavillon Ledoyen's hosted Patisserie and Champagne Salon (Paris) was Lanson's just-about-to-be-released organic and Demeter certified champagne. 

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Notes of citrus, yellow fruits, fresh and mineral, this champagne has been aged 3 years and is the product of former Leclerc Briant held vineyards which were some of the very first in Champagne to dare organic and bio-dynamic viticultural practices. Purchased in 2010 by the house of Lanson, their acquired 16 hectares now make up much of what is being released as Lanson's Green Label: Ecocert, Demeter, monocru, monoparcelle and certified by the Interprofessionel designation of Viticulture Durable en Champagne (VDC). 

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The champagne has fine bubbles and after its note of citrus, finishes on a slight bit of spicy. It has only 8g. of sugar. And its label is made from recycled paper. It officially comes from the Maison à Verneuil. 

The official release date in France (it has been on the export market since 2017) is for September. That means that maybe for next year's Wimbledon matches, the tennis fans and Meghan will get to drink organic and bio-dynamic Lanson chamapagne! 



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Vins de Bergerac Southwest France

by Paige Donner

It seems that everyone these days can't get enough of the wines from the Southwest of France, namely the Bergerac region. It's likely just a coincidence that Wine Enthusiast named it their region of the year for 2018, since it has definitely been on its own upswing for quite awhile now. 

Gamme-Belingard

When I communicate with fellow wine appreciators from abroad visiting France, I emphasize that for quality:price ratio you can't beat the wines from Bergerac & Duras. Probably its most famous appellation (outside of France, at least) is Monbazillac, which produces the sweet wines full of botyritis-induced honey-stewed apricot notes. 

Of course, nestled in the Périgord region famous for its gastronomic food culture, you would expect the wines to match up to that. Still, for the last several centuries the region has been a bit overshadowed, at least on the export market, by its neighbor just to the northwest, which you may have heard of, called Bordeaux. However, the regions share such close proximity that the far eastern edges of Bordeaux's appellations actually touch up against Bergerac. 

The average, every day wine enthusiast in either France or abroad is not the only type of wine drinker who has become infatuated with this promising region that tends to overdeliver. The English have long staked their claim here as a retirement haven and now even landed wealth from elsewhere has been moving in and renovating chateaus and replanting vineyards as organic. 

Case in point: 

 

Chateau Monestier La Tour

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This fully refurbished and renovated chateau produces a wide range but one that is fairly standard for the region: red, white, rosé and sweet.  Their wines carry the appellation (AOC) designations of Bergerac, Côte de Bergerac and Saussignac.  The vineyards of the chateau literally touch right up against the frontier to the Gironde. 

This idyllic wine producing chateau was bought in 2012 by the Swiss family (Scheufele) who owns Chopard. They just simply fell in love with the region. Since purchasing the historic estate, they became passionate about converting their 27.5 hectares into not just organic but bio-dynamic vineyards. Their efforts are bearing fruit. The winemaker is also advised by the well respected Stpéhane Derenoncourt. 

To try: Côtes de Bergerac Rouge 2015  & Côtes de Bergerac Rouge 2016

Each are blends of Cabernet Franc and Merlot with the 2016 getting a 5% dose of Malbec, too. 

 Château Monestier La Tour

 

Chateau Bélingard

Maison-43

If the château described just above is sort of this region's Cheval Blanc, then Château Bélingard could be its Figeac. Owned and operated by Laurent and Sylvie de Bosredon, the estate has been in the family since 1820. Their 75 hectares are situated in the Périgord, just a few kilometers from Bergerac. 

The château produces reds, whites, rosés and sweet wines. The traditions that allow them to make such fine and elegant wines - their white Reserve 2015 for example is fresh, light and crisp - have been anchored in the family's cellars and methods of elaborating their wines for generations. The Réserve Sec is 70% Sauvignon and 30% Semillon with its freshness belying its 13.5% alcohol level.  

To try:  Château Bélingard Réserve Bergerac Sec 2015;  Ortus de Château Bélingard Côtes de Bérgerac Rouge; Blanche de Bosredon Monbazillac  (perfect with foie gras and/or roquefort).

Belingard.com 



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Friday, July 6, 2018

New French Chefs At The Eiffel Tower

by Paige Donner

Announced by the French Press (Le Point) just hours ago, the Eiffel Tower, affectionately known by the French as La Dame de Fer, will have two new resident French chefs as of January 2019. 

Chef Thierry Marx, two Michelin stars, the Executive Chef of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Paris and the founder of the Cuisine Mode d'Emploi(s) schools will be the chef at the 57 Tour Eiffel.

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Pictured above: Chef Thierry Marx

The other chef is Frédéric Anton, the 3-star Michelin chef of the Pré Catalan located in the Bois de Boulogne in Western Paris, who will head up the Jules Verne. 

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Pictured Above: Chef Frédéric Anton

The Eiffel Tower welcomes 5.5 dining visitors each year and the famed Tower's two restaurants are reported to generate a total revenue of €39.9 million euros.  In this case the winning bid went to Sodexo, ousting Elior and its chef Alain Ducasse who held the city lease since 2008. 

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The new lease bid is good until 2029. 

Félicitations Sodexo & Chefs Frédéric Anton & Thierry Marx. Bien joué! 

 


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Monday, May 14, 2018

Episode 37: GrØnt Danish Food in Paris and Atelier du Saké

by Paige Donner

For our wind-down of Season 4 of Paris GOODfood+wine we get green Danish style with Jane Pedersen and her GrØnt grains and smorgasbørd good eats. Of course she pronounces her native Danish words properly so I won't even try to go there. Suffice it to say that the name of her food company, Grønt, means Green in Denmark.

[caption id="attachment_7464" align="alignnone" width="2272"]IMG_6421 Jane Pedersen of Gront Danish Food in Paris[/caption]

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Pictured above is Jane Pedersen, founder of Gront Danish Food in Paris. Photo by Paige Donner taken at the Galeries Lafayette Fondation.  More photos on FoodWine.photography

Then we turn to Sake. This fermented rice wine's ancient mysteries have long been held by Japan. Maryam Mazur, brand manager for Paris' Atelier du Sake gives us a brief intro on things we need to know about this naturally organic beverage.

Paris Food And Wine Atelier du Sake

So, once again, I am delighted that you've joined us for another episode of Paris GOODfood+wine. Please leave your reviews on iTunes by following the link posted on our show notes at Local Food And Wine, that's LocalFood.wine and also on Paris Food And Wine that's ParisFoodAndWine.net. Your questions, comments and suggestions are welcomed and we can't wait to see you back here after the summer hiatus for more of Paris GOODfood+wine.

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Sunday, April 15, 2018

Les Vignerons Parisiens & La Confiture Parisienne

by Paige Donner

For a double-whammy on #localfoodandwine bliss, stop by Paris' only urban winery on rue de Turbigo in the 2nd arrondissement, Les Vignerons Parisiens, to pick up the jamglee du vin rouge download

that they inspired the ladies behind Confiture Parisiennes to make in their honor: wine jelly!

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gelee nuits saint georges downloadThese limited edition jams and jellies are made with wine grapes as their base and they perfectly with crackers and cheese and, yep!, dainty (or not so dainty) sips of wine.

An urban winery is a tried-and-true concept in familiar wine regions in the U.S. such as Napa, Santa Ynez and Willammette Valley - but folks here in Paris are still getting used to the concept. But Les Vignerons Parisiens is one of the most inviting chais I have ever visited here in France, and that it's just a few minutes walk from my office makes it even better!

un-employe-des-vignerons-parisiens-a-l-oeuvre-a-paris-le-19-octobre-2016_5734223

So if you're visiting the city and are hankering to get that wine experience in, but have limited time, Les Vignerons is the next best thing to a visit out to Bordeaux or Burgundy. The vinification tanks are on premise and they'll even tour you around the premises, explaining how the wine is made. Finish this all off with a tasting of their red and white wines - coupled now by the divine Confiture Parisienne limited release of wine grape jellies.

#localfoodandwine never tasted so good - in Paris!


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Wednesday, April 11, 2018

L'Esprit Champagne Castelnau 'Hors Catégorie'

by Paige Donner

Maybe it's because there's a woman Chef de Cave, Elisabeth Sarcelet, at Champagne Castelnau? Or maybe it's simply because the champagne limited edition by Castelnau designated 'Hors Catégorie' which translates into English as 'priceless' or 'beyond categorization,' is a limited edition unique blend? But there's something about this cuvée that truly makes it exceptional.  

Each of these limited edition release cuvées under the label Hors Catégorie are blended to stand alone. They are not a standard by which other champagnes of the house will be blended, as is the production M.O. in Champagne (with a few exceptions such as Jacquesson).  When Ms. Sarcelet blends this cuvée she does so by selecting only the most exceptional wines in the cellar and then delicately and expertly blends them to bring out only the best individual characteristics of each of the singularly vinified cuvées. Each of these champagnes released under this special label or "cuvée" is made to stand alone. 

What's even more extraordinary is that in this current release of Hors Catégorie, CCF 2067 released on 22nd January, 2018, there is only 5 g. of sugar. But its roundness and its voluptuousness would have even the most expert of champagne connoisseurs guessing otherwise. 

" For this second edition, the spirit of Hors Catégorie is ever present. As its fine bubbles burst we are transported to a universe of spice and vanilla notes. A gentle signature of oak is conferred by ageing for 10 months in Burgundy barrels made from wood from the local Argonne forest, and it is this that gives some smoky notes to the blend. An aromatic complexity develops as the wine opens up with scents of toast, candied lemon and delicate minty notes.  - Elisabeth Sarcelet, Chef de Cave, Champagne Castelnau

Elisabeth Sarcelet, Chef de Cave, Champagne Castelnau, pictured above

According to the tasting notes, the best wines for this release, Hors Catégorie CCF 2067, were selected mainly from Trépail, Villers-Marlery, Montgueux, Vitryat, Riceys and Montagne Ouest. Fifteen % from 2011 harvest and 85% of reserve wine from 2010 (a very good year in Champagne). Aged for nearly a year in oak from Burgundy. 

15% Chardonnay 

40% Pinot Noir

45% Pinot Meunier

3600 bottles. 300 magnums. Produced June 2012. Disgorged May 2017. 

Click Here for the Product Sheet


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