Checking In With Bordeaux's Cité des Civilisations du Vin

by Paige Donner

It's always a thrill to watch the development, the progressive, step-by-step development of an ambitious and culturally iconic project. Such is the case with the Cité des Civilisations du Vin gorgeously taking shape along the banks of the Garonne in Bordeaux. 

FULL Slideshow HERE

All photos by Paige Donner.  ©2015 Paige Donner. 

Anouk Legendre, Architect

According to Sylvie Cazes, the President of the Foundation for the Support of the Cité des Civilisations du Vin, the project, now in its 8th year, took a bit of time to get off the ground because it was a matter of "finding the money."  Among dozens of generous donors and supporters some of those offering the greatest largesse are Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, Pétrus, Domaine Clarence Dillon, Vinexpo, Groupe Edmond de Rothschild, Bernard Magrez Grands Vignobles and the American Friends of the Center for wine and civilization. 

Here in these photos, taken in mid-May, you will see demonstrated the rise of what can only be called audacious architecture. 

"The architects Anouk Legendre and Nicolas Desmazières have imagined a structure replete with symbolic echoes: the knotty trunk of a grapevine, the swirl of wine moving in a glass, the ebb and flow of the Garonne...their design captures the spirit of wine and its fluid essence: a seamless curve, weightless and sensual."

After walking around the site with a team of other journalists, led by the architect, Ms. Legendre herself, my overall (early) impression was as though I'd been floating through a decanter. Whatever you make of the building's design, its imminent opening, projected for June 2016, is an exciting prospect for wine lovers, enthusiasts, amateurs and connoisseurs the world over. Stay tuned...

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Les TonTons Trinqueurs Edition 2015

by Paige Donner 

What's better than sipping Burgundy on a barge parked along the Seine in Paris? 

Burgundy Wine Tasting at Les TonTons Trinqueurs Paris 2015. Photo by Paige Donner copyright 2015.

The wittily named Les TonTons Trinqueurs (which is a tongue-in-cheek reference to the old cult French comedy film, les TonTons Flingueurs, or Crooks in Clover) took place on what felt like the first spring day of the year in Paris. 

To "trinqueur" in French means to drink to someone's health, and by 10:30 am this vast and roomy barge, accommodating easily 300 people, was already nearly filled to capacity. That's what the call of Burgundy wines does. It gets even Parisians up and out of bed early enough to enjoy a morning of excellent wine tasting.

Burgundy Wine Tasting at Les TonTons Trinqueurs Paris 2015. Photo by Paige Donner copyright 2015.

There were other wines at the tasting as well, notably two champagnes, including the distinguished house of Jacquesson who were just releasing their Cuvée no.738 for public scrutiny. There were also a few wines fom Languedoc (Olivier Pithon), the Loire (Gérard Boulay), Provence (Jempier), and the Rhone (Ogier). But the large majority, present by the dozens, were the many and varied Burgundy vignerons who were pouring fom their 2013 vintage. 

Burgundy Wine Tasting at Les TonTons Trinqueurs Paris 2015. Laura Coffinet of Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay. Photo by Paige Donner copyright 2015.

I asked Laura Coffinet and Philippe Duvernay what they were drinking now at home, and they frankly replied that their Chassagne-Montrachet 2008s are just coming into their own.

Tastings like these teach you how to anticipate and also how to recognize outstanding quality even when it's still young and fresh and lacks nothing but a bit of age. 

More Info at tontons-trinqueurs.com 



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Paris GOODfood+wine - Episode 4

GOODfood+wine aka Paris GOODfood+wine © Paige Donner 2014

Paris GOODfood+wine airing on World Radio Paris

Episode 4 

1. Climats de Bourgogne  by Paige Donner - Interview with Guillaume D'Angerville

2. Emily Dilling Interview by Paige Donner - In studio interview with our GOODfood+wine fresh market reporter

3. Chef Singer (formerly) of Le Cordon Bleu Cooking School Paris -  Interview by Gabrielle Mondesire 

4. Restaurant Review L'Amarante - Paige Donner interviews Alec Lobrano, Paris restaurant critic,  in-studio

Episode 4 airs on World Radio Paris on April 5th, Easter Sunday, at 11am. Listen for it at the same time the rest of the month or on-demand, streaming at WorldRadioParis.fr/listen-again

In this episode of Paris GOODfood+wine ….

You'll be hearing from one of Burgundy's most knowledgeable proponents, Guillaume D'Angerville, of their UNESCO World Heritage candidacy which at present is being considered for inclusion as a world cultural site of outstanding universal value,

Next Emily Dilling, our market report regular contributor stops by the World Radio Paris studios to chat with us a bit and tell us about her upcoming book release.

photo courtesy tastings.fr

Then Gabrielle Mondesire shares her interview with the former head chef of Paris' Le Cordon Bleu cooking school where she works as a translator.

And, finally, Alec Lobrano brings us his newest bistro pick, L'Amarante, which happens to also be a hot new Paris address that has several of his French restaurant critic peers abuzz these days, too.

photo courtesy AlexanderLobrano.com

Paige Donner hosts and produces Paris GOODfood+wine.

This episode of GOODfood+wine was brought to you in party by the generous support of FUSAC. FUSAC.fr is Paris' expat community resource and infomration publication since 1988.

And by the generous support of Paris Food And Wine

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France - L.A. Culinary Connection March 11th to 14 - It's All About The Cuisine, Bébé

Sponsored Post

Over twenty Michelin-Starred Chefs and James Beard Award Nominees and Winners represented in second annual culinary showcase at L.A. LIVE, March 11-14, 2015

All-Star Chef Classic showcases renowned domestic and international chef talent in a series of interactive dining experiences, bringing over 3,500 fans 'kitchen-side' for unparalleled access to their favorite chefs—the first ever event showcase of its kind in the food festival landscape.

Six immersive, chef-led dining experiences will take place at L.A. LIVE's custom-built Event Deck, including the bespoke Restaurant Stadium and Chefs' Tasting Arena for a three-part Masters dinner series dedicated to French, British, and American talent; the Grill & Chill, a celebration of open-flame cooking; Kitchen Kids, a record-setting large-scale cooking class for kids and Cook for the Cure to spread awareness and benefit those fighting cancer and celebrate those who have won the battle.

The 2015 All-Star Chef Classic will include more than 25 internationally-renowned chefs and personalities:

Ludo Lefebvre (Trois Mec, Los Angeles), Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Chateaubriand, Paris), David Toutain (Restaurant David Toutain, Paris), Sven Chartier (Saturne, Paris), Nancy Silverton (Mozza, Los Angeles), Daniel Patterson (Coi, San Francisco), Christina Tosi (Momofuku Milk Bar, New York), Michael Cimarusti (Providence, Los Angeles), Jenn Louis(Lincoln, Portland), Suzanne Goin, (Lucques, Los Angeles), Waylynn Lucas (fonuts, Los Angeles), Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun, Los Angeles), Jonathan Waxman (Barbuto, New York), David Lefevre (MB Post, Manhattan Beach), Aarón Sánchez (Paloma, Stamford), Wylie Dufresne (wd-50, Alder, New York), Suzanne Goin (AOC, Lucques, Tavern, Los Angeles), Josiah Citrin (Melisse, Los Angeles), Zoe Nathan (Huckleberry Café & Bakery, Santa Monica), Carolynn Spence (Chateau Marmont, Los Angeles), Mark Hix (Hix, London), James Lowe (Lyle's Restaurant, London), Daniel Doherty (Duck and Waffle, London), Skye Gyngell (Spring, London), and Bryn Williams (Odette's, London).

Celebrating the passion, innovation, and community of great food and cooking with the industry's most venerable personalities, the 2015 All-Star Chef Classic lineup includes:

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

French Masters Dinner

Location: Restaurant Stadium at L.A. LIVE's Event Deck
Doors Open 6 p.m. / Dinner Begins 7 p.m. 
Prices: $275-$425

The "French Masters Dinner" features four of today's culinary leaders in French cuisine, hosted by Master of Ceremonies, Billy Harris. The chefs will prepare a five-course dinner for a select group of seated guests, along with an elegant pairing of French wine.

Featured chefs include:

• Ludo Lefebvre (Trois Mec, Los Angeles)
• Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Chateaubriand, Paris)
• David Toutain (Restaurant David Toutain, Paris)
• Sven Chartier (Saturne, Paris)

Thursday, March 12, 2015

American Masters Dinner

Location: Restaurant Stadium at L.A. LIVE's Event Deck
Doors Open 6 p.m. / Dinner Begins 7 p.m.

Friday, March 13, 2015

Cuisine for the Cure

Location: Restaurant Stadium at L.A. LIVE's Event Deck
Doors Open 11:30 a.m. / Lunch Begins 12 p.m.

British Masters Dinner

Location: Restaurant Stadium at L.A. LIVE's Event Deck
Doors Open 6 p.m. / Dinner Begins 7 p.m.

Saturday, March 14, 2015

Kitchen Kids

Location: Restaurant Stadium at L.A. LIVE's Event Deck
Doors Open 10 a.m. / Event Begins 10:30 a.m.

Grill and Chill

Location: Chefs' Tasting Arena
Doors Open 7 p.m.- 10 p.m. 
Prices: $125-$225 – Special Price "France in LA" $100

The "Grill and Chill" event celebrates the pleasures and spectacle of cooking over an open flame in the Chefs' Tasting Arena, bringing the outdoor grilling experience to guests for a curated tasting tour of dishes from a diverse group of chefs. In addition our 'Chilling' Chefs will serve a delicious variety of cold dishes – from salads to desserts to pastries.

Featured chefs include:

• Michael Cimarusti (Providence, LA)
• Nancy Silverton (Mozza, Los Angeles)
• Waylynn Lucas (fonuts, Los Angeles)
• Jon Shook & Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun, Los Angeles)
• Jonathan Waxman (Barbuto, New York)
• David Lefevre (MB Post, Manhattan Beach)
• Aarón Sánchez (Paloma, Stamford)
• Wylie Dufresne (wd-50, Alder, New York)
• Suzanne Goin (AOC, Lucques, Tavern, Los Angeles)
• Josiah Citrin (Melisse, Los Angeles)
• Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Chateaubriand, Paris)
• Ludo Lefebvre (Trois Mec, Los Angeles)
• Carolynn Spence (Chateau Marmont, Los Angeles)
• Zoe Nathan (Huckleberry Café & Bakery, Santa Monica)
• Jenn Louis (Lincoln, Portland)
• Sherry Yard (Helms Bakery, Spago)
• Mark Hix (Hix, London)

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Valentine's Day Incites Passion For...Chocolate!

by Paige Donner

This Valentine's Day why not indulge in a bit of self-love?  Yes, I mean CHOCOLATE!

The good thing about eating chocolate is that it's actually included in the grouping of Nature's Super Foods. 

Gotta love nature! 

If you happen to be in Paris, you can pick up some fancy sweet chocolate treats at the most gourmet of gourmet shops that Parisians like to keep all to themselves: Méert.

These photo below are just a couple of examples of what you can find there. 

Méert Valentine's Day Gift Box - Chocolate!

Méert Valentine's Day Gift Box - Chocolate!

This sweet treat is the specialty on offer at the picturesque, lovely, and very traditional Café de la Paix, just in the shadows of the Palais Garnier, the Opéra de Paris. 

©T.CARON- Café de la Paix Saint Valentin

And if you read French (or use an online translate app)  and want to try out a fabulous recipe for making your own holiday chocolate bonbons full of taste and passion, this comes courtesy of Le Cordon Bleu, the wonderful cooking school in Paris that once welcomed even Julia Child. 

Happy Valentine's Day - photo courtesy Le Cordon Bleu

La Saint-Valentin approche ! Voici une bonne occasion de préparer soi-même ses chocolats pour les offrir à l'être aimé et de tester la technique du tempérage du chocolat, clé de la réussite de vos bonbons.

Pour 40 bonbons Dans cette recette : chocolat de couverture 70 % beurre de cacao coloré pulpe de fruit de la Passion poudre d'or alimentaire Trimoline®

Ingrédients

Caramel passion 50 ml d'eau 90 g de sucre 15 g de Trimoline® (sucre inverti) 30 g de beurre 45 ml de crème liquide 50 g de sucre 30 g de pulpe de fruit de la Passion Moules et enrobage 20 g de beurre de cacao coloré (facultatif) poudre d'or alimentaire 400 g de chocolat de couverture 70 % Note: 2 moules à chocolat en polycarbonate de 20 empreintes

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Episode 2 GOODfood+wine aka Paris GOODfood+wine Airs February 15th

Episode 2 GOODfood+wine aka Paris GOODfood+wine Airs February 15th 2015

by Paige Donner

If you read French and keep on top of French culinary news, you may already have bookmarked several of these articles that buzzed around the social media waves these past weeks, namely how France is mounting a campaign of Gastro-Diplomacy. 

Well, we here at GOODfood+wine (aka Paris GOODfood+wine) applaud these efforts. In fact, I wholeheartedly embrace the synergy of the first episode airing the very same month that the French government officially launched the spearheading of their formal worldwide communications campaign about the abiding merits of French cuisine.

EPISODE 2 AIRING ON WRP Sunday, February 15th, 2015

The second episode of Paris GOODfood+wine (aka GOODfood+wine) airs this Sunday on World Radio Paris.  If you live outside Paris and don't get the station on your radio dial,not to worry. You can catch the episode on replay, along with Episode 1 as well, at WRP/ListenAgain.

Chef Yannick Alléno Paris/ Pavillon Ledoyen 3 Etoiles Michelin/ Février 2015

By the way, Chef Yannick Alléno is the Paris chef who was just awarded a third Michelin star for the restaurant he bought last year, Pavillon Ledoyen. You will hear more about it, plus an interview I did with him about his love of wine, in this episode, Episode 2 of Paris GOODfood+wine. 

EPISODE 2 - The show lineup:

In this Episode of Paris GOOD food+wine, we'll be hearing from Alec Lobrano, our featured guest restaurant reviewer and author of Hungry for Paris. He'll give us the scoop about Chef Yannick Alleno's re-envisioned Pavillon Ledoyen. The Pavillon Ledoyen is an iconic Parisian restaurant that this supertstar chef recently installed himself in as Executive Chef and owner.

Next you'll hear an interview I did with Chef Alléno himself about his love of wine and his winemaking collaboration with Côtes du Rhône organic wine champion, Michel Chapoutier.

Frédéric Lalos, Master Baker

Then you'll get to hear an interview our contributor and pâtisserie specialist, Gabrielle Mondesire, did with Frédéric Lalos, a baker whose praises are sung throughout Paris and even throughout France.

Krug Sounds

Lastly, if music be the food of love, then Krug has a corner on it. At least that's the sense you get when you listen to Krug's President, Margareth Henriquez, who explains to us why men prefer tannins and women tend to naturally take to the sing-song of champagne.

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Food (& Wine) Books by French Authors Make Good Gifts

by Paige Donner

Any season is a good season to give the gift of an exquisite, illustrated book about food and/or wine. Here you will find three selections, all of which are authored by French experts in their fields of food and wine, Gérard Bertrand (wine), Eric Kayser (pâtisserie) and Régis Marcon (mushrooms). The books are printed in French, for now, but with such exceptional picture illustrations, they very easily span the cultural divide.

 
​

Champignons by Régis Marcon

Selected here are Régis Marcon's book about Champignons, and I mean all kinds. This Loire-based three-star French chef came out with his book from Martinière publishing in 2013. In early December he won another accolade for it, this time from Champagne Collet who holds a culinary book competition every year, the Livre de Chef. The event's official name is Champagne Collet du Livre de Chef and you can read more about it here and more about the illustrious chef Régis Marcon's 416 page book about mushrooms, here.

 

 

Champagne Collet prix du livre 2014 Book by Régis Marcon, Champignons, photo by Paige Donner copyright

 

Champagne Collet prix du livre Chef Régis Marcon middle, Olivier Charriaud, ceo champagne collet, far left photo by Paige Donner copyright

 

Champagne Collet prix du livre book selection December 2014 photo by Paige Donner

 

Champagne Collet prix du livre chef Régis Marcon left, champagne collet ceo Olivier Charriaud, right photo by Paige Donner copyright 2014

 

 *Author's note: as a stunning example of the cultural communications chasm that still exists between France and the rest of the culinary world, imagine standing in a room of food and wine journalists at a chef's book award event in France and having everyone swear to you that they've never heard of Zagat's! No kidding. The main problem with this scenario is not ignorance, since not everyone can know about everything, even when it comes to such important food and restaurant Bibles as Zagat's (which does, officially, have a presence here in France, even since Google bought them out a few years ago). No the real problem with that scenario is the self-assured smugness of local, francophone culinary journalists and marketing/export teams who insist that if they haven't heard of something, there is no merit to it. I assure you, however, that even though my anglo restaurant and food critics friends got a thorough kick out of this anecdote, to stand in a room full of culinary journalists (mainly francophone but also New Zealand and Australian) and have them all glare at you when you insist that Zagat's is, most definitely, a foodie's Bible and is of great import in our world, is NOT a fun experience.

It is these cultural divides, no, strike that, communication chasms, that I will continue to tackle in my newly expanded radio program, Paris GOODfood+wine. You can listen to that on World Radio Paris.

By the way, the only thing that saved my neck from the threatened lynching at the above noted event was that, thank goodness, the CEO of Champagne Collet had spent a bit of time abroad and did know about Zagat's, knew it well, in fact. But imagine, the only one in a room full of culinary professionals, wine marketing and export pros, and food-wine journalists (for the French market) who did! YOWZA!

 

Next up:

L'Atelier Gourmand d'Eric Kayser

Boulanger Eric Kayser is the darling of the fresh bread world here in Paris. He also has five or maybe even six now, bakeries in NYC. All of which are flourishing.

This new book of his focuses on his pâtisserie offerings. It follows his previous book release in 2013 that was all about the bread. With 20,000 books sold, it has seen great success.

This new book, just released in time for the end of year festivities,  is all about his simple cakes achieved with great finesse. You will find 70 recipes and tons of mouth-watering photos in the book of things like: strawberry macarons, caramel cakes garnished with nougatine mousse along with the traditional French offerings of fraisier, éclairs, mini-financiers and other assorted cakes and fine pastries.

Find out more at Maison Kayser.

 

 

L'Atelier Gourmand d'Eric Kayser book photo by Paige Donner copyright

 

Eric Kayser l'Atelier Gourmand d'Eric Kayser book signing December 2014 Paris photo by Paige Donner copyright

 

Eric Kayser signing l'Atelier Gourmand new book December 2014 Paris photo by Paige Donner copyright

 

Gérard Bertrand, Le Vin à La Belle Étoile

Last, but not least, is the book for wine lovers, especially of France's southern wines. Former rugby star turned wine mogul, Gérard Bertrand, has just released his book, Le Vin À La Belle Étoile.  The success of the marketing of his wines in the U.S. in recent years has defied previous market trends, introducing the American consumer to affordable French wines. Bertrand is also a champion of bio-dynamic wines and a lover of jazz music.  My video interview HERE.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mnXEi-_FXg

 

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♥Chérie Du Vin