Yannick Alléno's * 1947 * At Cheval Blanc, Courchevel France

by Paige Donner

• WHEN: December 12, 2012  until April 7 2013

• Where:  1947, Yannick Alléno's new Pop-Up Gastronomic artistic culinary odyssey of a restaurant at Cheval Blanc in magical winter playground Courchevel, France

Please find here excerpts from the Press Release with my running commentary in red italics. 

Five Michelin-starred French Chef Yannick Alléno begins his winter season at Cheval Blanc Courchevel's 1947 restaurant when it opens on December 12th. 

[OK, this is the Super-Uber-Chef-Extraordinaire Alléno, the same mastermind behind Terroir Parisien which I wrote about here. Note to self* Find someone to explain to me how a mere mortal (human being presumably) gets 5 (five!!) Michelin Stars. I mean, even one signifies you've walked through a dozen or more culinary rings of fire. Right?]

The wine: creating a closer alliance

Moving away from traditional food and wine pairings, 1947 offers guests an entirely new way of experiencing wine, by blending the DNA and raw materials of the wines with the ingredients of Alléno’s dishes to create extraordinary results. 

A loin of veal  is  marinated in the barrels from Château Yquem and cooked using chalk from the Ruinart quarries, whilst the vegetables are fermented in vine leaves from Krug’s Clos du Mesnil. The serving temperature of Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1996 is regulated; perfectly suiting the artichoke and black truffle…it is with these intricacies that Alléno is laying the foundations of a new modern cuisine

[Wow. Quelle Magnifique. Ruinart Crayères and grape leaves from Clos du Mesnil - love this Cradle to Cradle conceptual approach and implementation. Not to mention Yquem's botrytis sweet-soaked barrels and Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1996. OMG. Amazing! ; ) ]

The product: distilling ingredients to their essence

“The culinary experience involves tasting exactly the right part of each product in 
successive sequences. At the end of the day, cuisine is only a question of concentration, 
and I have tried to extract the quintessence of the product through a selection process 
resulting from a long investigation,” explains Yannick Alléno.

The service: true mise en scene

Bucking the trend of pared-down service, at 1947 Alléno revives this pillar of French culinary history to offer guests a team of experts that echo the quality of the dining. The scene is set with assistants, sous-chefs and wine waiters that ensure that every aspect of the culinary journey is accompanied by knowledge and passion.

[Ahhh. Niiicce. Back to a bygone era... I'm feeling waves of nostalgia for an era I never even experienced.]

Every evening until 7 April 2013, up to twenty five guests will have the opportunity to  experience Alléno’s new culinary  concept – Cuisine Moderne. The master Chef will create French cuisine that fuses proud Gallic tradition with innovative creativity to define this new foundation. Main course is shared by all 20 guests.

[*Note to LFAW readers - please (please, please, please)  send in your impressions if you have the good fortune to enjoy Alléno's 1947 culinary odyssey this winter season in Courchevel.]

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As a Thank You we’re giving you a Holiday Bonus Perk

We’re optimistic that we’ll reach our film production fundraising goal for Wine & Climate Change, but we can’t do it without people like you.  Word-of-mouth and shared links have really helped and we truly appreciate your support.

IndieGoGo.com/WineAndClimateChange

AS A SPECIAL HOLIDAY GIFT, WE’VE ADDED THE BONUS PERK OF A 3-DAY 2-NIGHT VACATION IN CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE.

Yes, that’s right. A Champagne Vacation for two.

To Qualify:  

1. Click Like on our Wine & Climate Change Facebook Page. You’ll find it here:  http://www.facebook.com/wineandclimatechange

2. Go to IndieGogo.com/WineAndClimateChange and click on Contribute, for a minimum of $20 or higher.  Add in the comments section that you wish to qualify for the chance to win the Champagne Vacation.

 

It’s that easy. You may contribute more than once to increase your chances.  We will choose One Winner the week of January 16th, 2013. Winner will be chosen randomly.

 

What YOU Get

A 3-day, 2-night vacation for two to Champagne, France. This includes two nights’ lodging in a luxury residence, a Tour and Tasting at Veuve-Clicquot Champagne Cellars in Reims, France, a visit and lunch to Hautvillers, where the monk, Dom Perignon, first invented champagne.

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*Transportation/airfare is not included. Some meals not included. Must be of legal drinking age to participate in the Tasting at Veuve-Clicquot Cellars. Must be 18 yrs. or older to participate.

 

 

Champagne Ernest Remy

If you ever find yourself for a day, or, better yet, a weekend, in Champagne during the Autumn season, use this as a sample daytripping itinerary and you won't go wrong.

Make your main destination Champagne Ernest Remy which is a long-held family champagne house located in Mailly, in the heart of the gracefully sloping hills of the Montagne de Reims. During the Fall, the play of colors - auburns, oranges, eggplants, deep reds, rusts, yellows, golds - is breathtaking so be sure to stop along the way and take pictures of the fleeting richness of nature while you're witness to it.

The Montagne de Reims is one of the most classical viticutural areas in France, famous for its Pinot Noir. The house of Ernest Remy Champagne makes its champagnes using only Grand Cru Pinot Noir from Mailly, harvested from their 15 hectares. Interestingly, for this harvest year 2012, Mailly enjoyed an abundant harvest, according to Ernest Remy's Tarek Berrada, who explained that it was perhaps due to the village vineyards' north- northwest sun exposure. In any event, they did not experience the limited harvest that most of the rest of Champagne did this year.

As with many wineries, this is a husband-wife team who have taken up the family business. But here is where any "typical" winemaker background ends, as both husband and wife come from the world of Art and Art history. It just so happens that she was born into a land-owning Champenoise family.

Evidence of these artistic leanings can be discovered in the labeling, packaging and design of their champagnes. For example, when you buy a bottle of their Rosé de Saignée Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru there is a small pink metallic medallion embedded into the top of the cork, hidden just under the champagne cap. A keepsake and a souvenir - for a memorable champagne whose hints of violet reveals itself on the long finish, after it has flirted its delicate wild strawberry and raspberry aromas before you. This Mailly rosé has a mere 6g. of sugar for its dosage and is aged a minimum of 20 mos. It is a rosé that could accompany meals, such as roast chicken, duck, lightly spicy asian dishes as well as red fruit desserts. It's available in Magnums and bottles, and in cases of 3 Magnums and cases of 6 bottles. *Tip: "Saignée" in French means that this rose has acquired its color through maceration and not blending.

With the rest of the day ahead of you, you have any number of wonderful restaurants nearby, all located in storybook beautiful little Champagne villages, one as lovely as the next. Top choices for lunch (or dinner) are L'Assiette Champenoise in Tinqueux, a two-Michelin starred restaurant that has a set menu starting at about 150 per person. Champagne Ernest Remy is on their menu.

Other choices in the vicinity include Le Relais de Sillery, Le Grand Cerf (Michelin starred), Le Château de Rilly (also a hotel) and then there's the small local favorite that you can easily pass if you drive along the Route du Champagne just a bit too fast - so be sure to keep a scenic pace and watch out for Le Mont Joly in Rilly, big steaks served on wooden cutting boards and very reasonable prices.

Lastly, it wouldn't be a trip to this Montagne de Reims region if you didn't stop in at Le Phare de Verzenay, an old windmill that has since been turned into a museum. But I'll let you do your Tourist Office legwork for this one as it's one of those sites you'll see displayed and described in most guidebooks and certainly at all the tourist offices.

Champagne Ernest Remy

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LA City Council Unanimously Endorses Yes on Prop 37 "Right To Know"

[re-posted from Press Release]

For Immediate Release: October 24, 2012

Los Angeles -- As supporters rallied in front of Los Angeles City Hall today, the Los Angeles City Council unanimously passed a resolution supporting Proposition 37, the Right to Know ballot measure that would label genetically engineered foods in California. California would join 61 other countries that already label genetically engineered foods, and Prop 37 would also prohibit such foods from being marketed as “natural.”

“It's not often that the LA City Council votes unanimously to support a measure, but Prop 37 was a no-brainer. We have the right to know what's in the food we're eating and feeding our families," said Councilmember Paul Koretz, the resolution's author. "I'm proud to be a part of this true grassroots campaign in our struggle against the biggest pesticide and junk food companies in the world."

 “We’re thrilled that the Los Angeles City Council voted to join our people’s movement today,” said Tom Fendley, political director of the Yes on 37 California Right to Know campaign. “The Council joins millions of moms, dads, family farmers, doctors, scientists, and grocery store owners in saying, very simply, that we have the right to know what’s in our food.”

The Los Angeles City Council joins the California Democratic Party, Senator Barbara Boxer, Congresswoman Maxine Waters, Congressmen Brad Sherman and Howard Berman, and dozens of other California city and town councils, elected officials and candidates in endorsing Prop 37.

And in a Related Press Release, Oct. 22, 2012 -

Chefs’ Petition In Support of Prop 37 Endorsed by Over 400 Nationally Renowned Chefs

Supporters Incude: Dan Barber, Mario Batali, Cat Cora, Joyce Goldstein, Deborah Madison, Jacques Pépin, Charles Phan, Nora Pouillon, Andrea Reusing, Barton Seaver, Bill Telepan, Alice Waters, and more.

Oakland--Alice Waters, chef, author, and proprietor of Chez Panisse, has called on her fellow chefs nationwide to join her in supporting California’s Proposition 37 – The Right to Know Genetically Engineered Food Act – which requires clear labels letting consumers know if foods are genetically engineered. Over 50 countries worldwide already require labeling of genetically engineered food.

In her recent letter, posted online at http://www.carighttoknow.org/chefs, Waters urged her colleagues and friends to stand together as chefs, restaurateurs, and people who care about food to support Proposition 37, stating: “On November 6th, the future of food is at stake at the ballot box… this is our moment to do something really important for everyone on this planet…. People around the world are watching to see how we respond."

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Montmartre Wine Harvest

This video shot by the prolific Parisian, Eric Tenin, founder of the Paris Daily Photo site and man-about-town extraordinaire, captures the annual Montmartre grape harvest with charm and flair.

I just love that "New York, New York" is being crooned in the background with that fabulous Parisian accent in Montmartre, one of the most historical neighborhoods of Paris.

 

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Cognac Charity Auction Raises €136,800 ($177,046)

[From Press Release]

The prestigious annual Cognac Awards were presented before the auction, going to two Americans. Ann Tuennerman, Founder of Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans, was presented with “Cognac Personality of the Year Award”, and acclaimed spirits writer David Wondrich was awarded “Cognac Writer of the Year Award.” The Cognac Awards celebrate personalities in the trade and media who have championed Cognac through their work.

The 7th Annual “La Part Des Anges” Cognac charity auction raised a record sum of €136,800 ($177,046), donated entirely to charity.

This new record perfectly illustrates the loyalty of collectors for Cognac, a spirit that embodies the values of passion, generosity and solidarity shared by its growers and merchants. All proceeds went to the Order of Malta—France.

 

The auction took place on Thursday, September 20th, in the magical setting of the Château Chesnel in Cherves-Richemont near the city of Cognac. 650 people from around the world gathered for the special event. Under the hammer of auctioneer Vincent Gérard-Tasset, 26 rare bottles of Cognac, along with a sculpture, were sold for a record total of €136,800 (last year’s sales totalled €100,600). A Martell lot received the highest bid of €21,000, followed by lots from Hennessy and Prince Hubert de Polignac (€14,000 and €10,500 respectively). See Appendix below for a complete list of sales.

PART DES ANGES – THURSDAY 20 SEPTEMBER 2012 

LIST OF SALES

 

COURVOISIER, Réserve Edward VII : 4 500 € 

LOUIS ROYER, Cognac Grande Champagne Reserve Royale : 900 € 

HARDY, Caryota / Privilège : 6 000 € 

CHÂTEAU DE MONTIFAUD, Millésime 1972 : 2 200 € 

FRAPIN, Frapin Baccarat Aigle Royal : 6 200 € 

MEUKOW, Nec Plus Ultra : 4 500 € 

LEYRAT, "Partage" - Exemplaire n°01/52 : 4 800 € 

DELAMAIN, Cognac Grande Champagne 1972 40 ans d'âge - Bouteille n°1/1 : 6 200 € 

PIERRE FERRAND, Memorable : 3 200 € 

HINE, Monnet Extra Capiello Collector : 3 700 € 

REMY MARTIN, Coupe Historique Extra Porcelaine : 5 000 € 

MARTELL, Coffret Martell Cordon Bleu - Edition du Centenaire : 21 000 € 

DUPUY - BACHE-GABRIELSEN, Borderies Millésime 1971 : 2 500 € 

A.E. DOR, Vieille Réserve Limitée - N°9 et N°10 : 2 500 € 

BRAASTAD, Stetangen : 4 800 € 

PRINCE HUBERT DE POLIGNAC, 888 Trunk : 10 500 € 

HENNESSY, Hennessy "Réserve Spéciale" : 14 000 € 

LEOPOLD GOURMEL, Petite Champagne 1972 : 2 200 € 

NORMANDIN-MERCIER, "La Péraudière" : 1 300 € 

OTARD, Exception - La Part des Anges : 2 000 € 

A. DE FUSSIGNY, Vintage 1970 : 1 400 € 

ABK6, Famille" - Carafe N°01/27 : 4 000 € 

CAMUS, Cuvée 2.105 - Family Legacy - N°1228/1228 : 4 200 € 

GODET, Trésor de Guerre : 4 700 € 

LA COGNATHEQUE, Collection Privée : Millésime 1840 Pinet Castillon : 8 000 € 

DE LUZE, De Luze Extra Single Barrel Finish Grande Champagne : 2 000 € 

ELEVATION : 4 500 €

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Mushroom Mixology and Funguy & Girl Package in Carmel, Calif.

Too Good to Pass Up!

@Bernarduslodge     FIXATED ON FUNGI  NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 MARKS BERNARDUS LODGE'S HOMAGE TO THE MAGICAL MUSHROOM WITH FORAGING TREKS, SPA TREATMENTS, MUSHROOM MIXOLOGY & CHEF STAMENOV'S FUNGI-FRESH MENU - Special Event: Five Star Edibles from the Wild Repast/November 17, 2012 -   CARMEL VALLEY, CALIF. - 2012 - From the oak-studded fields of Carmel Valley to the redwood forests of Big Sur and Monterey Bay, the seasonal forage for local porcinis, chanterelles and candy caps hits a high note this winter at Bernardus Lodge.   The two-month homage to Mr. Fungi includes Big Sur foraging treks, mushroom-infused cocktails, anti-oxidant "FunGal" spa treatments and a special a la carte menu at Marinus Restaurant focused on the coveted gems of the forest. A new two-night hotel package is also available. SHAKEN, SAUTEED & SAVORED...                 From Bernardus' Chanterelle and Elderflower Martini to the succulent Squab "Cailette" with Porcini and Sauce Perigord, the seductive qualities of the mushroom have outpaced most   screen sirens.   Ancient Egyptians linked the mushroom to immortality and its exotic flavors were reserved solely for royalty. South Pacific cultures believed in the mushroom's aphrodisiac qualities, the early equivalent of Viagra. While cultivation credits go to the French and Southeast Asians, it is the Californians - those early-adopter foragers, cutting-edge chefs and passionate palates - that have placed these fleshy fungi on a pedestal. Like a caped avenger, this super food is rich in antioxidants, packed with vitamins D and B, and  struts to the table in a variety of textures and flavors. An avid forager, chef Stamenov harvests much of his own stash for Marinus' seasonal menu, in additional to the coveted 20 lbs. of imported truffles he trades on annually. The seasonal menu will include a lusty lineup of entrees, including a rich White Truffle Risotto, Local Black Cod with Chanterelles and Carmel Bay Spot Prawns with Matsutake Angnolotti, bathed in a wild fennel sauce. More than savory, mushrooms also have a sweet side. Pastry chef Ben Spungin rounds out the dessert menu with a sinful Black Truffle Ice Cream Sundae, Caramelized White Chocolate and Chanterelle Mousse and fragrant, maple-overtoned Candy Cap Pot de Crème with Pistachio Streusel. FUNGI FORAGING Rain means wild mushrooms, and nowhere are they more prevalent than along the coastal forest and dense redwoods of Monterey County. On tap are two weekly guided fungi forages (Wednesday and Saturday), which include transport. Playing to the unparalleled beauty and bounty of Big Sur, the moderate three-hour coastal and inland trek led by a seasoned forager is certain to jump start the senses ($75.00/person; weather dependent). Most notable in the region are chanterelles, porcini and candy cap varieties. PULL OUT THE PEDESTAL:   FIVE STAR EDIBLES FROM THE WILD REPAST (NOVEMBER 17, 2012) As the suns sets, chef Stamenov and his team turn up the heat at award-winning Marinus Restaurant with a reception and five-course tasting menu focused on Mr. Fungi.   Paired with a selection of wines from Bernardus Winery, the menu will showcase both savory and sweet dishes including locally sourced Carmel Bay Spot Prawns with Matsutake Angnolotti and a sinful Black Truffle Ice Cream Sundae.   Although not of the hallucinogenic variety, the mushroom-inspired dishes crafted for this repast will be nothing short of mind-blowing ($150.00/person inclusive). SCRUB, SOAK, SLITHER... Take to the Warming Pool at the 5,300 sq. ft. Spa at Bernardus Lodge, followed by a series of treatments designed to release the body of free radicals and renew the epidermis. The new Mushroom Medley includes an exfoliating body scrub followed with a hot rock massage combining a custom Bernardus blend of oak, moss and mushroom-infused oil (50-minutes; $150.00/person). Slither into the sexy alfresco whirlpool with a heady 25-minute mushroom soak for the ultimate chill-out (add-on). FUNGUY & GIRL PACKAGE (November/December 2012) Slip away for a stay in the valley of the wine gods. The new Funguy & Girl two-night package includes guest accommodations, a three-hour foraging trek for two, mushroom spa package for two and $150.00 meal credit at Marinus Restaurant or Wickets Bistro. Rates start at $1050.00/double. Packages are available November 1 through December 30, 2012, subject to availability and exclusive of taxes, gratuity and resort fees. Blackout dates apply. Reservations: www.bernardus.com . BACKSTORY Set on 26 pristine Carmel Valley acres awash with vineyards and lavender, Bernardus Lodge boasts 57 luxurious guestrooms, award-winning dining, the signature Spa at Bernardus Lodge, two swimming pools, an alfresco bocce court and 4,000 sq. ft. of meeting space. Created by Bernardus Pon, owner of Bernardus Winery and Vineyard, the Lodge offers a bespoke escape steeped in European graciousness. A member of Leading Hotels of the World and partner with American Express Fine Hotels and Resorts Program, Bernardus Lodge received the Conde Nast Traveler Johansens 2012 Awards for Excellent for "Most Excellent Lodge," 2012 AAA Four Diamond Hotel rating and 2012 Forbes Four-Star award for the Lodge, The Spa at Bernardus Lodge and Marinus Restaurant. The Lodge is perennially recognized by discerning readers of Conde Nast Traveler's "Top Hotels" and Travel and Leisure's "Worlds Best Hotels" as well as being a Wine Spectator Grand Award recipient (2001-2012) and voted #1 in Andrew Harper's 2012 Reader Survey of "Top Food & Wine Resorts" worldwide. Bernardus Lodge is located on the Monterey Peninsula, 120 mi./193 km. south of San Francisco and 330 mi./531 km. north of Los Angeles. The Lodge is a 20-minute drive from the Pacific Ocean, Pebble Beach, Carmel-by-the-Sea and Monterey and a 45-minute drive from scenic Big Sur. For information contact Bernardus Lodge at 1.888.648.9463 or visit www.bernardus.com .

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